Jeweller - July 2022

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JULY 2022 

Contents 

This Month 

Industry Facets 

11 Editorial 

12 Upfront 

14 News 

26 Product Spotlight 

24 

29 

60 

62 

10 YEARS AGO 

Time Machine: July 2012 

LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

Pearls IV: Seed and Keshi 

MY BENCH 

Harry Bassil 

SOAPBOX 

Greville Ingham 

30 Jewellers Showcase 

33 LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS FEATURE 

The Perfect Storm 

4The door has been opened for lab-grown 

diamond manufacturers to seize a larger slice 

of the market. With Russian diamonds excluded 

from international trade, SAMUEL ORD explores 

future options for lab-grown creators. 

Features 

33 

38 

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS FEATURE 

The crisis in Ukraine has changed the industry forever 

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY FEATURE 

Customised? One-of-a-kind? Customers want it. 

Better Your Business 

38 PERSONALISED JEWELLERY FEATURE 

Feeling Sentimental? 

4Personalised jewellery remains 

as popular as ever, with consumers 

increasingly seeking out products which 

appeal to an individual's perceived 

identity. Learn about the latest trends 

making waves in 2022. 

54 

56 

57 

58 

59 

BUSINESS STRATEGY 

Retail cliches. SUSAN MARTIN says it's time to let some of them go. 

SELLING 

BRIDGET BROWN has advice on how to walk the fine line of efficency in communication. 

MANAGEMENT 

It's time to start thinking outside the box. DALE FURTWENGLER explains how. 

MARKETING & PR 

SHEP HYKEN implores retailers to value customer service over pricing. 

LOGGED ON 

HEATHER COOPER returns with practical ideas for blogging as a business owner. 

43 LEARN ABOUT GEMS 

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Editor’s Desk 

When the window of opportunity opens, 

don’t pull down the shade 

The conflict between Russia and Ukraine has handed the lab-grown diamond industry a unique opportunity. 

ANGELA HAN says making the most of these once-in-a-lifetime chances is how history is made. 

Timing is everything in business and right 

now, the diamond industry finds itself in 

critical territory. 

Taking advantage of unexpected and 

surprising societal changes, often 

generated by external market forces, has 

been part of the key to the unpredicted rise 

of many, now-legendary, businesses. 

With Russia being excluded from significant 

sectors of international trade, perhaps there 

is a lesson from history to be remembered 

for lab-grown diamond suppliers. For 

example, in the 1950s, three major US car 

manufacturers – General Motors, Ford, and 

Chrysler – ruled the roost and dominated 

the domestic market. 

In the US, bigger was always better! Efforts 

to design and manufacture smaller and 

more fuel-efficient vehicles were as far 

removed from a priority as can be. This 

manufacturing mindset continued through 

the 1960s before slamming into a brick wall 

in 1973 when OPEC, led by Saudi Arabia, 

declared an oil embargo targeting Canada, 

Japan, the Netherlands, the UK and the US. 

The US retail gasoline industry was forced to 

begin a national rationing program at petrol 

stations. They would display a green flag if 

they had petrol to sell. A red flag, well, that’s 

obvious. Within months of the embargo, the 

price of oil had risen by nearly 300 per cent. 

Another restriction would follow in 1979, 

causing dramatic changes in approach to 

the global economy. 

These circumstances were a disaster 

for General Motors, Ford, and Chrysler, 

as domestic car dealers began to report 

consumer resistance towards Detroit’s 

‘gas-guzzling’ vehicles. 

Feeling the pinch of expensive fuel for the 

first time, and terrified of the prospect of a 

global recession, consumers went in search 

of vehicles a little kinder to the hip pocket. 

Saving money was the aim, especially if the 

product essentially did the same thing – 

getting you from point A to point B. 

These circumstances opened the door 

for Toyota. 

As the oil crisis continued to send 

shockwaves, consumers increasingly 

favoured vehicles such as the Toyota 

Corolla – designed with fuel efficiency in 

mind – and today, the Corolla is the world’s 

all-time best-selling automobile by units, 

with more than 50 million sold. 

Toyota capitalised on an opportunity, created 

by geopolitical factors far beyond its control, 

and as a result grew into a company that as 

of today, is the ninth-largest in the world. 

Talk about luck and good timing! 

The perfect storm 

With manufacturing capability and quality 

on the rise, the timing has never been better 

for lab-grown diamond suppliers to grab a 

larger slice of the pie. 

Jewellers we’ve spoken to in recent weeks 

have reported that it’s more likely to be 

younger people visiting stores who are 

increasingly curious about lab-grown 

diamonds. 

For some, the messaging around labgrown 

diamonds being the ‘environmentally 

friendly’ alternative to practices such as 

mining has hit home, even if not true. 

Younger consumers are attracted to 

products offering sustainability, even if the 

facts don’t support the belief, while others 

suggested that social media has played a 

big role in a change in mindset. 

Lab-grown diamonds can allow consumers 

to buy a physically bigger stone at a cheaper 

price tag. The larger the diamond, the easier 

it is to photograph with a smartphone for an 

Instagram or Facebook upload. 

Jeweller has been monitoring search 

engine data for many years and has verified 

a steady increase in ‘digital interest’ in labgrown 

diamonds in the lead-up to the start 

of the war in Ukraine. Russia’s invasion, 

and the resulting economic upheavel – 

especially in the diamond industry – has 

resulted in the term ‘conflict diamonds’ reemerging, 

thereby pushing new consumers 

in the direction of lab-grown diamonds. 

However Jeweller’s research shows that 

the interest in man-made diamonds was on 

the increase long before the first shots were 

fired in February, and long before the first 

sanctions were put in place. 

It’s important, of course, to remember 

that keyword search engine data trends 

are simply that – data. It does not 

differentiate between users or intent. That 

is, we can’t tell the difference between a 

customer poised in front of a laptop, credit 

card in hand and, say, someone searching 

reasons for why they should not buy a labgrown 

diamond! 

And while those 

heavily invested 

in the success 

of lab-grown 

diamonds might 

see the economic 

upheavel as 

pennies from 

heaven, they 

would be well 

advised to 

remember that 

windows can 

eventually 

slam shut. 

However, they both gain a search result 

and contribute ‘data’ to a trend. Not all 

individual searches are equal in the grand 

scheme of things. 

Nonetheless, it’s an intriguing piece of a 

larger puzzle. 

Nothing lasts forever 

And while those invested in the success of 

lab-grown diamonds might see the economic 

upheavel as pennies from heaven, they would 

be well advised to remember that windows 

can eventually slam shut. 

Ask any stock market investor about ‘trend 

reversals’. In fact, that have a name and 

measure for it - Relative Strength Index. 

The first oil crisis began in October of 1973. 

While the market experienced shockwaves 

for years to come, the embargo was ended in 

March of 1974 – less than a year later. 

As previously mentioned, a second oil crisis 

took place in 1979 which started as a result of 

the Iranian Revolution. The price of crude oil 

increased over a 12-month period and once 

again the US was subjected to long lines at 

petrol stations and waves of fuel shortages. 

After 1980, fuel prices experienced a steady 

decline over the next two decades, bar a 

brief rise during the Gulf War. These two 

windows of opportunity were all it took to 

cripple the US car manufacturing industry 

and elevate Toyota to one of the world’s 

largest companies. 

One year after the Iranian Revolution, 

Japanese car manufacturers had surpassed 

Detroit’s total production and had become 

number one worldwide. Two small windows 

of opportunity and history is changed forever! 

Not all trends last forever. Need an example 

of trends reversal closer to home? The 

SWATCH watch phenomenon of the 1980s 

ran it’s course demonstrating that good 

things can come to an end. That is especially 

so when your competitors start to fight back! 

Will lab-grown diamond manufacturers 

follow suit and make the most of their 

unexpected window of opportunity? 

Who knows? And only time will tell, but we 

can’t assume the natural diamond suppliers 

will sit on their hands doing nothing because, 

after all, it is hands that close a window. 

Angela Han 

Publisher 


Upfront 

#Instagram hashtags to follow 

Alpha Order 

#sapphirejewelry 

154,014 POSTS 

#earringlove 

959,111 POSTS 

#naturaldiamonds 

269,899 POSTS 

#rubiesandpearls 

1,401 POSTS 

#opalpendant 

91,710 POSTS 

HISTORIC GEMSTONE 

Wittelsbach-Graff 

#pinkdiamonds 

87,088 POSTS 

#bluesapphire 

643,346 POSTS 

#opalrings 

68,203 POSTS 

#jewellerygoals 

140,780 POSTS 

#jewellerytrends 

395,022 POSTS 

4The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond is 

mentioned in texts dating back to Vienna 

in the early 1700 The Wittelsbach-Graff 

Diamond is a 31.06-carat deep blue 

diamond that was discovered in the 

Kollur Mine in India in the mid-1600s. 

The diamond has internal flawless clarity. 

Maximilian IV Joseph von Wittelsbach 

became the first King of Bavaria in 1806 and 

commissioned a royal crown that displayed the 

diamond. Until 1918, the jewel remained on top of the 

Bavarian crown. In 2008, London jeweller Laurence Gaff 

purchased the gemstone for $US23.4 million, which at the 

time was a record performance for a diamond at auction. Gaff 

wasn't to remain the owner for long, however. In June 2011, Graff 

is believed to have sold the diamond to the former emir of Qatar, 

Hamad bin Khalifa, for at least US$80 million. 

Trend Spotting 

4"Dopamine dressing" remains one 

of the themes of 2022, with the feelgood 

fashion focus popular. Maximalist 

jewellery is a common approach and 

at the annual Cannes Film Festival, 

Deepika Padukone was seen in a 

Maharani necklace crafted with 

sourced multi-coloured gemstones and 

uncut diamonds from Sabyasachi’s 

Tropic of Calcutta collection. 

Image credit: XXX 

Stranger Things 

Weird, wacky and wonderful 

jewellery news from around the world 

Italian blood feud 

4Members of the the House of 

Savoy, Italy's former royal family, 

appeared in court in June as 

attempts to reclaim a jewellery 

collection featuring 26,000 pieces 

and more than 6,000 diamonds 

continue. The House of Savoy 

was exiled following World War 

II, but was granted permission to 

return in 2002. Now the family is 

requesting the return of a jewellery 

collection valued at more than 

$US300 million, which sits inside a 

vault at the Bank of Italy in Rome. 

Tinder Swindler 

4Victims of Shimon Hayut will 

recoup losses via the sale of a 

Stronger Together bracelet. Hayut 

changed his name to Simon Leviev 

and claimed to be the CEO of 

Leviev Diamonds. He defrauded 

women met on dating apps under 

his assumed identity. Three 

victims, Cecilie Fjellhoy, Pernilla 

Sjoholm, and Ayleen Charlotte, 

played a role in designing the gold 

and diamond bracelet. 

Digital Brainwave 

127-year record broken 

Real or synthetic? 

Andrew Kwong 

has made a name 

for himself as a 

diamond expert. 

4Andrew Kwong, co-owner of Canadian 

business Christine Jewellers, is the 

mastermind behind a social media 

phenomenon, which has amassed 3.2 million 

followers on TikTok. Kwong gained fame 

for videos featuring diamond testing, which 

he releases with the aim of educating the 

public on the differences between synthetic 

and authentic diamonds. “We do diamond 

testing for every customer that comes in to 

get their jewellery cleaned or resized, and it 

became something everyone was interested 

in watching,” Kwong told Richmond News. 

Campaign Watch 

4Historic Italian luxury brand Bulgari 

has launched a new campaign 

starring actresses Anne Hathaway 

and Zendaya. A film titled Unexpected 

Wonders has been released as a part 

of the campaign. Directed by Paolo 

Sorrentino, famous for the 2013 film 

La Grande Bellezza, the brand 

campaign was filmed in Rome, the 

city where Bulgari was founded by 

Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari 

in the 1880s. 

4Swarovski has appointed former 

McKinsey & Co executive Alexis 

Nasard as CEO. Nasard will be the 

first person to lead the company, who 

is not a descendant of founder Daniel 

Swarovski, in the company's 127-year 

history. Swarovski was founded in 

1895 by Swarovski, Armand Kosmann, 

and Franz Weis. The company is 

headquartered in Austria and Nasard 

will begin in early July, taking over 

from Michele Molon. 

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY 

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com 

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalists Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com | Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com 

Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com 

Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd 

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information 

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to 

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arising from the published material.

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News 

Major rebrand for icon 

Jewellers see mixed sales results for May 

also went down by 6 per cent when measured 

against May last year, but saw a good increase 

compared with May 2020 by 27 per cent. 

After more than four decades of operation, the Peter 

W Beck Company has to undergone a major rebrand, 

becoming BECKS. 

Peter Beck founded the Peter W Beck Company in 

1976 alongside his wife, Ann Beck. 

The pair worked tirelessly over 40 years, developing 

the business into an ambitious market-leading 

provider of precious metals products and services. 

Ann Beck passed away in September of 2021 and 

Peter in December of the same year. 

The move is said to be an ‘evolution’ of the business 

which is now rebranded as BECKS, and managing 

director Greville Ingham said it’s a move aiming to 

both acknowledge the past and prepare for the future. 

“Peter Beck built our business to become and always 

be a family business,” Ingham said. 

“Carol, Jenni and I have worked at various stages 

of our lives with Peter and always knew at some 

point we would all end up together as part of Peter’s 

succession plan. Our transition to Becks reflects 

upon the fact that we are now in all ways truly the 

manifestation of a family business and we felt that 

should be reflected in our brand. 

“Becks pays homage to our father who built an 

incredibly successful Australian precious metals 

business and also acknowledges the change we 

have in leadership.” 

Ingham said the company will continue to remain 

flexible, while also keeping the core principles, 

particularly that of loyalty, in place. 

“[This is] evolution, definitely not revolution! We have 

incredibly loyal supporters in the industry,” he said. 

“We do everything here using Australian labour, right 

down to refining our platinum and palladium, setting 

our stones, drafting our CAD designs and alloying our 

metals. Our support of the industry, and our desire 

to promote growth and education for the benefit 

of the industry will not change. We want to remain 

relevant not just as a supplier but also as a builder and 

contributor to opportunity within the jewellery 

and precious metals industry." 

He added: “Our new product development will head 

in a slightly different direction, the emphasis on being 

environmentally and socially responsible will heighten 

under a younger generation.” 

Following a series of positive sales trends 

since the beginning of the year, May overall 

sales dollars dipped slightly by 2.8 per cent 

compared with the same month last year. 

The latest Retail Edge Consultants sales 

performance report indicated a significant 

54 per cent decrease from 2020. However the 

report shows a wide array of mixed results. 

For example, there was a slight decrease 

in comparative units sold by 4.6 per cent 

compared with May 2021 but a strong 

increase by 23 per cent when measured 

against May 2020. 

The report indicates a significant change in 

Mother’s Day sales this year. 

According to Mike Dyer, sales manager, 

Retail Edge, “It appeared the Mother’s Day 

celebrations were more centred around faceto-face 

contact and meeting and eating rather 

than jewellery gift-giving.” 

“It’s possibly a reflection on the changed 

circumstance from last year around social 

distancing.” 

Comparative average sales based on inventory 

continued to sustain the growth momentum as 

it steadily increased by 1.6 per cent compared 

to the same period last year from $194 to $197 

and a much stronger increase by 27 per cent 

($156) when measured against May 2020. 

Dyer noted “mixed results across the product 

categories” led by diamond set precious metal 

jewellery which saw a significant decline in 

sales dollars by 21 per cent compared with 

May 2021 but saw a much higher increase by 

66 per cent based on a two-year difference. 

“The overall drop in unit sales and the 

Mother’s Day shift from jewellery gifting to 

socialising would have an influence on that,” 

he said. 

Colour stone set precious metal jewellery 

sales dollars were down by 10 per cent 

compared with May last year but revealed 

a much stronger increase by 68 per cent 

compared with May 2020. 

Non-stone precious metal jewellery sales 

Silver and alternative metal jewellery saw a 

sustained uptrend marked by an increase of 

3.1 per cent compared with May last year, as 

well as a significant increase of 69 per cent 

when measured against May 2020. 

Laybys also increased by 4.5 per cent between 

new pieces and pickups/cancellations which, 

according to Dyer, “indicates that there will 

be potential increased cashflow and customer 

visitations as a result.” 

Services and repairs fell by 25 per cent based 

on dollar values between new pieces and 

pickups/cancellations. 

Dyer said that dollars for special orders 

remained steady with no variance, adding 

“maybe it’s time to bring these activities 

(services) you offer back into the forefront 

of your marketing and social media.” 

Retail Edge’s data is gathered from its POS 

software across more than 400 Australian 

independent retail jewellery stores. It is 

intended to present a representative sample 

of the wider jewellery industry. 

14 | July 2022

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News 

Government changes watch 

battery regulations 

Switzerland's Edox returning to Australian stores 

Duraflex is a leading distributor and wholesale 

supplier of retail jewellery in the Oceania region, 

serving more than 1,100 stores in Australia. 

Sales and Operations Director of Duraflex, 

Trent McKean, said Edox watches offer 

boutique appeal. 

Duraflex Group Australia (DGA) has confirmed 

an exclusive new distribution partnership with 

legendary Swiss watch manufacturer Montres 

Edox et Vista SA (Edox). 

Edox, also operating as Era Watch Company, has 

a rich history of watch and timepiece production, 

dating back to Switzerland in the early 1880s. 

The new partnership between Duraflex and Edox 

will be launched at the International Jewellery 

Fair in Sydney, running from 27-29 August. 

“The addition of Edox to the DGA portfolio 

complements our existing stable of watch 

brands perfectly,” he said. 

“Edox is an independent family-owned 

boutique Swiss watchmaker and is, therefore, 

the alternative to mass production brands. 

We’re looking forward to growing this luxury 

brand here locally.” 

Edox is headquartered in the Swiss city of 

Les Genevez, where the company manufactures 

more than 70,000 watches annually. 

Secrets Shhh continues to expand store count 

The Australian Competition and Consumer 

Commission (ACCC) has introduced changes to the 

standards applied to lithium coin cell and button cell 

battery safety standards, commonly used in watches. 

These new laws are effective as of 22 June, and have 

been introduced to reduce the risk of ingestion of 

batteries, particular by children. 

The standards were introduced in December 2020 

with an 18-month transition period to allow 

businesses time to prepare. 

“These world-first mandatory standards for button 

batteries are an important step in helping to 

prevent injuries to children. Time is running out for 

manufacturers and suppliers to ensure their products 

are compliant,” ACCC deputy chair Delia Rickard said 

in a statement in April. 

“Once the standards become mandatory the ACCC 

will focus on enforcement action.” 

Per the mandatory safety and information standards, 

products must have secure battery compartments to 

prevent children from gaining access to the batteries. 

Manufacturers, such as watch companies and 

suppliers, must undertake compliance testing and 

place warnings and emergency advice on packaging. 

These changes to standards will not affect the 

wholesale purchase of batteries by retailers and the 

changes shouldn’t impact services such as watch 

repairs. The ACCC standards do not apply to button 

and coin batteries that are supplied in bulk to trades, 

professions or industries, such as the watch and 

jewellery industry, and that are not intended for sale 

to the public. 

Penalties apply for businesses that supply button and 

coin batteries, or products containing them, that do 

not comply with the mandatory standards. 

Secrets Shhh Charlestown 2022 

Secrets Shhh has opened a new store at 

Charlestown Square, NSW, marking a 

significant milestone for the brand. The 

opening highlighted the company’s post- 

COVID-19 recovery expansion and takes to 

21 the number of Secrets Shhh stores. 

The retailer was launched in 2000 specialising in 

diamond simulant – cubic zirconia – jewellery. 

According to Mike Parsell, managing director 

Secrets Shhh, "The [new] boutique brilliantly 

displays the brand's new visual identity and 

design direction. The bright, white, light and 

open space has been designed to be discovered 

from afar and encourages exploration.” 

“Floor to ceiling windows, white walls and a 

curved centrepiece display makes a stunning 

statement in the centre to showcase our 

designs.” 

Parsell explained that the Charlestown Square 

store highlighted an ongoing expansion of 

physical stores having recently opened outlets 

in Westfield Sydney, Castle Towers, Macquarie 

Centre and The Strand Arcade. 

The company promotes itself as offering an 

alternative to diamonds saying its “mission 

continues with an ambition to provide the 

most beautiful jewellery; while reducing any 

harm to the Earth.” 

Diamond simulants such as cubic zirconia and 

moissanite have a long tradition in the jewellery 

industry. They are gemstones manufactured 

to look like diamonds but are both visually and 

compositionally different. While lab-created 

diamonds have the same chemical properties 

as natural diamonds, simulant stones such 

as cubic zirconia are not lab-created or natural 

diamonds. 


News 

Pandora buys another retail network 

Pandora has continued its strategy of acquiring the retail jewellery stores 

of its country distributor, announcing the purchase of a Portuguese retail 

network. 

The takeover – which assumes full control of retail operations and business 

management in the region – involves 34 Visão do Tempo stores – 24 concept 

stores and nine mall shops – established throughout major cities and 

premium locations in Portugal. 

The restructure is in line with Pandora’s Phoenix business growth and 

network expansion strategy announced in 2021. It follows the acquisition 

in March of its largest North America franchisee Ben Bridge Jeweler. 

That deal involved 37 US and Canadian stores. 

Pandora will begin operating the Portuguese stores on 20 July under the 

Pandora label with the aim of improving brand development, increasing 

sales channels and enhancing its product offerings. 

Olivier Kessler-Gay, general manager for the Western Europe market 

cluster, Pandora said, “Portugal is one of the top markets in Western 

Europe and we see great potential to further strengthen our brand and 

drive growth.” 

“I would like to thank Visão do Tempo for launching Pandora in Portugal 

16 years ago and for their dedicated stewardship ever since. Pandora 

is today a main actor in the Portuguese jewellery sector, and we plan to 

continue the positive development.” 

Visão do Tempo introduced Pandora to the Portuguese market in 2006. 

The store network posted total sales revenue of €24 million ($AU36.33 

million) in 2021. 

Frederico Carneiro, CEO, Visão do Tempo said, “We are deeply thankful 

for the opportunity to establish and grow Pandora in Portugal.” 

“Pandora will now enter the next phase in Portugal and I am confident 

that this step will take the brand even further and bring it more success,” 

he added. 

In 2021, Pandora launched its first exclusive lab-created diamond collection 

set and announced plans to phase out natural diamonds from its product 

lines. 

The jewellery company had previously used both man-made and mined 

stones across its collections, albeit in very limited quantities. Worldwide, 

natural diamonds were set in approximately 50,000 of the 85 million pieces 

it manufactured in 2020. 

Founded in 1982, Pandora remains headquartered in Denmark and has 

extended its reach to more than 2,700 stores in 100 countries worldwide. 

The company employs approximately 27,000 people.

Persephone 

The goddess of spring. 

Platinum and Pink Diamond 

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News 

Signet continues to exceed sales targets 

Signet Jewellers announced it exceeded revenue targets based on 

its latest 13-week sales period ending 30 April indicating a sustained 

uptrend in sales since the beginning of the year. 

The US-based company, said to be the world’s largest retailer of 

diamond jewellery, released its first-quarter fiscal 2023 results 

highlighting a 9 per cent increase in overall sales of $US1.8 billion 

($AU2.53 billion) compared with the same period last year. 

There was an increase of 2.5 per cent in same-store sales. The 

company owns around 2,800 stores including Kay Jewelers, Zales, 

Jared, Diamonds Direct, JamesAllen.com, Rocksbox, Peoples 

Jewellers, H.Samuel, Ernest Jones and Sterling Jewelers. 

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According to Virginia Drosos, CEO Signet, “Customers responded to 

the breadth and newness within our assortment, particularly higher 

price point offerings, diamonds and precious metals.” 

North American sales achieved the largest increase in sales, up by 

5.5 per cent at $US1.71 billion ($AU2.41 billion), followed by other 

territories which generated $US110 million ($AU140.80 million) in 

combined revenues representing a significant increase of 95 per cent 

when measured against the same period last year. 

However, Jared, Kay, James Allen and Zales reported a significant 

net loss of $83.5 million ($AU117.6 million) when compared with the 

previous year’s profit of $US138.4 million ($AU194.86 million) for the 

same period. 

Joan Hilson, chief financial and strategy officer expressed high hopes 

that Signet will meet revenue forecasts throughout the year despite 

the market challenges by leveraging online channels to drive highvalue 

purchases. 

“While we anticipated and experienced softening within lower price 

points resulting from heightened inflation and the lack of stimulus, 

we delivered offsets through tailored assortments, digital capabilities 

and enhanced services to maintain higher average transaction values,” 

she said. 

In March, the company reported a large increase in revenues for the 

2022 fiscal year which rose to nearly 50 per cent when compared with 

the previous year. In its previous quarterly and annual financial report 

released on 13 March, full-year revenue for 2022 reached $US7.8 billion 

- a sharp increase following a disappointing 2021 ($US5.3 billion). 

Full-year sales topped the fiscal year ending in 2020 January by 

27.5 per cent, a clear indication of the company’s success during 

the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. 

P 02 9290 2199 

E Pink@samsgroup.com.au 

Signet’s business interests primarily focused on the US market, 

with just $US492.4 million in revenue generated internationally. 

In comparison, it reported more than $US7 billion in sales in 

North America.

News 

Rio Tinto launches exclusive program for Argyle pink diamonds 

Australian mining giant Rio Tinto has launched 

its Icon Partner program, designed to protect 

the legacy and provenance of the famed Argyle 

Pink Diamonds. 

Rio Tinto retained and managed the Argyle Pink 

Diamonds name following the closure of the Argyle 

mine in 2020, and has continued to work with its 

exclusive distribution network to manage and 

protect the provenance of the brand. 

The program has also created a certification 

service and trading platform called Beyond Rare 

for special sales events and a number of strategic 

collections and collaborations involving existing 

inventory and the secondary market. 

According to Sinead Kaufman, chief executive 

of Rio Tinto Minerals, “This is the start of a new 

chapter for Argyle Pink Diamonds, to ensure they 

maintain their value and investment potential as 

a finite, unrepeatable natural resource and achieve 

the status of outstanding heritage diamonds.” 

She added, “Rio Tinto is proud to continue to 

manage the legacy of this uniquely Western 

Australian product and I pay tribute to the 

unrivalled craftsmanship and deep engagement 

of all our customers and partners who have been, 

and continue to be instrumental in creating the 

global phenomenon that is Argyle Pink Diamonds.” 

International jewellers John Calleija and John Glajz 

have been licensed as Icon Partner and granted 

exclusive rights to develop the remaining Argyle 

pinks into jewellery and limited edition pieces. 

Australian jeweller John Calleija, who owns luxury 

jewellery brand Calleija, has worked with Argyle 

pink diamond pieces for the past 30 years. 

“I am enormously proud to work with Rio Tinto,” 

he said, noting that he is “looking forward to 

continuing to create works of art and wearable 

treasures for our clients around the globe that are 

worthy of the brand’s heritage diamond status.” 

Singapore-based John Glajz, who owns Glajz THG 

and also creates Argyle pink diamond jewellery, 

said he is “delighted to be appointed as Icon 

Partner and continue a long association with the 

Argyle Pink Diamonds brand.” 

As previously reported by Jeweller, Rio Tinto 

estimated that Argyle pink diamond prices have 

appreciated by 500 per cent over the past 20 years. 

Overall pink prices rose 116 per cent between 

2009 and 2019, according to the Fancy Color 

Research Foundation (FCRF). 

Owner Rio Tinto permanently closed the source 

of more than 90 per cent of the world’s pink 

diamonds, the Argyle Mine in the Kimberley 

region, after more than 30 years of operation. 

Over the period of operation, the mine produced 

more than 865 million carats of rough diamonds 

and is the world’s largest producer of natural fancy 

colour diamonds. 

The famous annual Argyle Tender of colour 

diamonds began with a 33-stone viewing in 

Antwerp in 1984. 

It has since evolved into a staple of the diamondbuying 

calendar that captivates industry figures 

and consumers alike. 

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International Jewellery Fair 

August 27-29th

News 

China's largest jewellery retailer reports strong sales despite lockdown impact 

Chow Tai Fook has reported impressive sales revenue 

despite the impact of pandemic restrictions. 

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, the largest 

jewellery retailer in China, has reported a 

strong revenue improvement despite the 

on-going COVID related lockdowns. 

Chow Tai Fook is the world’s second largest 

jewellery retailer by market value. 

Based on the financial report for the fiscal year 

ending 31 March, Chow Tai Fook posted total 

revenue of $HK98.9 billion ($AU18.24 billion), 

a 41 per cent increase compared with the same 

period last year. 

Gross profits rose by 11.3 per cent to $HK22.3 

billion ($AU4.11 billion), driven by demand for gold 

jewellery in mainland China, despite the volatile 

market conditions generated by the government’s 

response to the pandemic. The market in China is 

responsible for approximately 88 per cent of Chow 

Tai Fook’s earnings, a 46 per cent compared with 

the same period last year. 

"Amid an ever-changing business environment, 

we are ready to take our business to the next level, 

leveraging on the foundation we have built together 

over time,” said Henry Cheng, chairman of Chow 

Tai Fook. 

Hamilton Cheng, Chow Tai Fook’s executive director 

for finance and information, noted that the stellar 

revenue figure is a good indicator that the market 

“has exceeded the pre-COVID level remarkably and 

the franchise business is clearly our major growth 

driver in recent years.” 

Cheng added: “sales in Macau have largely 

returned to the pre-pandemic level, thanks to a 

recovering tourist spending there.” Sales in Macau 

and Hong Kong reportedly increased by 15 per cent. 

Cheng also highlighted the company’s “dual-force 

strategy” for business expansion, opening an 

additional 1,361 stores in China. Chow Tai Fook 

now has more than 5,900 stores worldwide. 

Newly appointed vice chair Sonia Cheng Chi-Man 

said the company will continue to utilise that 

strategy throughout the coming year and “continue 

to strengthen our collaborations with franchisees 

and tap further into the lower tier markets in the 

mainland [of China].” 

She added that Chow Tai Fook aims to maintain 

competitiveness throughout the fiscal year by 

focusing on branding, corporate culture and 

intellectual capital, as well as sustainability. 

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News 

Patek Philippe surprises at auction 

A 1990 Patek Philippe watch has set an auction record, surpassing its 

pre-sale estimate during the Phillips Hong Kong tender. 

The watch was sold for $US2.5 million ($AU3.6 million) and initially 

was expected to fetch around $US829,000, making it one of the notable 

performers at watch auctions held to date. 

The rare golden Grand Complication model was originally acquired during 

the 2016 Geneva Watch Auction. Only 120 of the same model were made in 

a variety of colours such as platinum, yellow, white and pink gold. 

The watch featured a sophisticated minute-repeater, 25-hour indicator, a 

perpetual calendar and phases of the moon, but what made it exceptional 

were features not found in similar models. 

“To the best of our knowledge, the offered timepiece is the only Patek 

Philippe Grand Complication with such a dial configuration known to the 

market,” the Phillips website stated. 

Diamond renamed ''Juno" after sale 

A 101.41-carat diamond has set another auction record after fetching 

$US13 million ($AU18.74 million) at the Sotheby’s New York Magnificent 

Jewels tender. 

The diamond was previously known as “Juno”, named after the Roman 

goddess of fertility and light, and comfortably surpassed the pre-sale 

estimate. The new owner has renamed the pear-shaped, internally 

flawless, type IIA diamond “Claire” in honour of his wife. 

The diamond is known for its size, similar to that of a small egg, and had 

a pre-sale estimate of $US10 million. 

Quig Bruning, head of jewellery, Sotheby’s America said, “Just a handful of 

diamonds over 100 carats have ever been offered at auction. The fact that 

we have two in one sale is rare beyond rare.” The Claire G is one of just 12 

D-colour diamonds to have been sold at auction since 1990. Sotheby's has 

sold seven of those. 

“We are thrilled to see this exceptional diamond achieve such a strong 

result, it’s confirmation that there’s ongoing demand from collectors at 

the highest levels of the market,” Bruning added.

10 Years Ago 

Time Machine: July 2012 

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller. 

Historic Headlines 

4 Backlash to Paspaley silencing critics 

4 Michael Hill continues to struggle in Australia 

4 Swatch Group on target for $8b in sales 

4 Chemgold introduces Australian first technology 

4 Tiffany & Co to open Bondi store 

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON 

BARRY URQUHART 

“If one is not able to accurately forecast 

mass-media headlines seven, 14 or 30 

days ahead, then no attempt should be 

made to project consumer sentiments or 

to believe that concise sales and profit 

totals can be documented and 

banked in advance.” 

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON 

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM 

Aussie jeweller puts ring on 

leading lady 

Sydney-based jewellery designer Amy Robson 

experienced a publicity dream last week when 

actress Kristen Stewart was photographed 

wearing one of her rings. 

When actress Kristen Stewart was in Sydney 

recently for the red carpet premiere of her new 

film Snow White and the Huntsman, Amy Robson, 

director of Amy Robson Jewellery & Objects, 

mustered some courage and approached her. 

Robson presented Stewart with a modified version 

of one of her ‘Rock Rings’, specifically created to 

suit Stewart’s style. 

“I looked at a lot of images and the style and type 

of jewellery she wears,” Robson told Jeweller. 

“It wasn’t bright and blingy because she doesn’t 

come across as someone who would like that. 

I gave it a variation to suit her style, which is a 

bit edgy. I oxidised the ring, and made the rocks 

slightly different shapes, with some darker areas 

to accentuate the texture on the ring.” 

Jewellery supplies targeted in 

robbery spate 

After a recent spate of robberies on jewellery 

stores, several jewellery suppliers have been 

targeted, with a raft of similar thefts reported 

in Sydney suburbs. 

New South Wales Police are searching for three 

people accused of robbing two jewellery salesmen 

in a carpark in Campbelltown last week. 

On Thursday morning, three people wearing 

balaclavas broke into a supplier’s car with 

an unknown object and assaulted one of the 

salesmen, who was sitting in the passenger seat. 

The thieves stole two bags from the back seat, 

which included gold jewellery. 

July 2012 

ON THE COVER Pastiche 

Editor’s Desk 

4Chicken or the egg: “I’m not sure 

if it can be proved who first started 

operating outside of the traditional 

channel, wholesalers, or retailers, but 

I do know that the world is changing. 

What used to happen doesn’t anymore 

and what was ‘right’ yesterday may not 

be any longer. 

“Buyers and sellers will not always 

agree; they each arrive at a point from 

different directions and they both do so 

in an ever-complex world. 

“Focusing on what came first, the 

chicken or the egg, won’t achieve 

anything nor will anything denying 

someone else the right to manage their 

business the way they see fit.” 

Soapbox 

4Time is running out : “Like the 

Tasmanian Tiger, watchmakers carry 

the perception of being typically shy 

and reclusive. Largely independent, 

watchmakers have had to contend 

with the same range of pressures that 

have plagued independent jewellers in 

recent decades, but the most recent 

challenge is one that threatens to stop 

the trade in its tracks.” 

– Nicholas Hacko, master watchmaker 

and watch dealer. 

Australian first for 

Melbourne’s Holloway 

Diamonds 

Melbourne’s Holloway Diamonds has 

become the first Australian business 

to become a certified member of the 

Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). 

The last few weeks have been frenzied for 

Garry Holloway, founder and owner Holloway 

Diamonds, as he strove to get his retail 

business fit for the audit that is required 

for full RJC membership. 

After the intensive two-day examination, 

which analysed the business across a 

range of criteria, including safe working 

environment and business ethics, Holloway 

became the first fully RJC certified 

independent jewellery retailer in Australia. 

De Beers’ profits slashed 

in first half of year 

Diamond mining and jewellery company 

De Beers has announced a 50 per cent drop 

in profits in the first half of 2012. 

De Beers has blamed challenging market 

conditions for the US$600 million fall in 

sales. 

The company announced pre-tax profit 

of US$502 million in its half-year report 

compared to the $1.01 billion profits earned 

in the first half of 2011. 

Problems with liquidity and excess stock 

in India were raised as contributors to the 

profit loss. 


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On The Market 

1 2 3 

4 

5 

JULY 

Product 

Spotlight 

Jeweller’s monthly compiled 

snapshot of the latest and greatest 

products to hit the market. 

6 7 

8 

1 ATHAN IMPORTS | A delicate, Italian-made trace chain that features an elegant lobster clasp with an adjustable double loop extending to 50cm in length. Available in three colours. 2 GERRIM | Blushing 

14-carat pink topaz earrings brilliantly highlighted with rubies and diamonds, the finest brilliance created with pleasure. 3 ELLENDALE | 18-carat white and rose gold matched set pendant and earrings, features 

31 pink diamonds from the Argyle mine and 64 round white diamonds. 4 MARK MCASKILL JEWELLERY | Exquisite pear halo accented with Argyle pink diamonds that sparkle in this pink caviar engagement ring. 

Available in 18-carat white gold. 5 SAMS GROUP AUSTRALIA | Exquisite 18-carat Australian sapphires, impeccably set within a stunning trilogy design. Makes for a remarkable statement piece, embellished 

with stunning white diamonds. 6 DURAFLEX GROUP AUSTRALIA | Rainbow bracelet with natural stones and spheres in 18-carat rose gold plate. A supple and comfortable piece of jewellery available in several 

colour varieties. 7 PATERSON FINE JEWELLERY | New initial diamond set pendants and rings, nine-carat yellow gold. The pendant is crafted with a 10mm disk and set with diamonds. The ring is crafted with an 

11mm disk and set with diamonds. 8 DJ DIAMOND DESIGNS | 18-carat white gold natural emerald, sapphire, ruby and diamond ring.

Behind every gemstone, 

there is a fascinating story 

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industry. Joining 

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Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist 

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Courses 

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Be 

Confident 

Gem-Ed Australia 

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY 

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts 

and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW 

Gems 

Pearls Part IV: Seed and Keshi 

Above: Moksh; Cult Gaia; Van Cleef and Arpels 

Below: Little H; Ikecho 

Seed pearls have long been a favourite 

choice for intricate designs throughout 

jewellery history, whilst the baroque forms 

of keshi pearls are today featured to bring 

jewellery design a touch of uniquity. 

Seed pearl is the term given to both salt 

and freshwater pearls smaller than 3mm. 

By World Jewellery Foundation (CIBJO) 

definition, these pearls are of natural 

origin only, produced without human 

intervention. 

Seed pearls have been a popular choice 

through time as smaller size pearls 

allow for intricate detailing and easier 

incorporation into a design than larger, 

statement pearls. 

During the neoclassic period of 1800 – 

1820, bunches of grapes and currants 

were represented in jewellery design by 

use of seed pearls. In the early Victorian 

period spanning 1837 – 1860, the trend 

of the time was to thread seed pearls 

backed with mother-of-pearl onto white 

horsehair, creating parures of elaborate 

designs. 

By the art deco period of 1920 – 1930, 

the use of seed pearls had evolved to 

include adorning lavish evening bags 

along with emeralds, rubies, and other 

precious gemstones. 

Unlike seed pearls, keshi pearls can be 

of any size, depending on the oyster or 

mollusc in which they grow. Akoya keshi 

pearls tend to be 2mm or less, whilst 

south sea and tahitian keshi pearls 

are generally 4mm+, even reaching 

impressive sizes over 10mm. 

Originally keshi, meaning ‘poppy’, was a 

trade designated term in Japan referring 

to small pearls, either naturally forming 

in saltwater or cultured without a bead, 

with a baroque shape. 

In more recent times, the term keshi 

pearls encompasses non-beaded pearls 

that develop either accidentally or 

intentionally as a by-product of the pearl 

culturing process, such as when the 

mantle rim of the oyster is damaged, or 

when part or the whole of the inserted 

mantle tissue creates a pearl sac when 

the bead is rejected. This means keshi 

pearls may be south sea, tahitian, akoya, 

cultured freshwater, or natural. 

Under the CIBJO pearl guidelines, it is 

noted the term keshi is often misused, 

and specified that the formation origin 

as either ‘natural’ or ‘cultured’ should 

always be included alongside keshi when 

describing them. 

Since the growth of keshis may occur 

accidentally without human intention, and 

they consist of only natural material (the 

layers of nacre), there is much debate 

and differing opinion as to whether keshi 

pearls should be classified as natural. 

The difficult factor is distinguishing 

whether the cause of growth was truly 

accidental or intentionally inflicted. 

Seed Pearl 

Produced by the 

Pinctada fucata, 

martensii, radiata, 

and imbricata oysters 

Colour: Multiple 

Found in: French 

Polynesia, Indonesia, 

Phillipines 

Mohs Hardness: 2.5 - 4 

Lustre: Pearly 

Formula: CaCO ³ 

Regardless, being the only saltwater 

cultured pearl without a nucleus inserted 

by man, the keshi pearl has gained an 

appreciation of its own. 

Given the lack of a uniform bead and 

often unintentional nature of keshi 

growth, these pearls are baroque, 

occurring in a wide and interesting range 

of shapes that offers jewellery a sense of 

uniqueness and intriguing design. 

Occurring in every type of pearl oyster, 

keshi pearls come in every possible 

colour of pearl – from the cream and 

silvery whites of akoya and south sea 

pearls, to the cool colours of tahitian 

pearls. They may even be what looks 

like two pearls conjoined - each a 

different colour. 

Taking advantage of the truly inimitable 

shapes and the exceptional lustre 

resulting from all-nacre pearls, keshis 

are both growing in popularity amongst 

consumers and appreciation amongst 

jewellers as an inspiring addition to 

jewellery design. 

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT 

began her career in the industry at 

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now 

balances her role at the Gemmological 

Association of Australia with studying 

geology at the University of Queensland. 

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan 

For more information on gems and 

gemmology ,go to www.gem.org.au 


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GENEINE HONEY 

Party Invite 

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Metal: 925 sterling 

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Gemstones: 

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30 | June 2021 

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LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT 

The Perfect Storm 

The 

Perfect Storm 

Lab-created diamond jewellery report 

Anabela Chan 

With the crisis in Ukraine causing significant issues to the 

international supply of natural diamonds, the door has been opened 

for lab-grown diamonds to capture a larger share of the market. 

SAMUEL ORD investigates the circumstances leading to this 

opportunity and speaks with retailers about consumer preferences.

The Perfect Storm | LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT 

IN NUMBERS 

Record Breakers 

Above: Vrai; Moi moi 

W 

hen you drop a pebble into a pond 

the ripples spread out, changing the 

organisation of the water as they bump 

together and break apart. In a way, the pond is never 

the same again. 

In a similar way, following the Russian invasion of Ukraine, 

the jewellery industry may never be the same again. As the 

war in eastern Europe continues and with no end in sight to 

the violence, the jewellery industry is increasingly feeling 

the impact. 

At the start of this year, no one could have predicted that 

the lab-grown diamond industry was about to be handed 

a free kick! 

The war began on 24 February and it wasn’t long before 

economic sanctions were levied against not just the Russian 

government, but also diamond mining juggernaut Alrosa. 

not only did sanctions come from the EU, US, UK and 

European political forces, but also corporate powers too. 

Alrosa is responsible for approximately one-third of the 

world’s supply of diamonds. With Russia now shut out of the 

market, according to the experts at Bank of America, the 

world’s supply of diamonds is now at its lowest since 2008. 

Bank of America’s Jason Fairclough, head of metals and 

mining research, recently predicted a 15 per cent rise in 

diamond prices in 2022. 

"We see the fundamentals remaining price-supportive short 

term. We expect global supply to peak at 114m carats in 

2023," he told the financial news website MarketWatch. That 

figure was 142m carats in 2019, before the pandemic began. 

Alrosa’s major international rival, De Beers Group, has 

increased diamond production in the first quarter of 2022 

however according to CEO Bruce Cleaver, any further rise 

is unlikely. He told Bloomberg, “It’s very difficult to see us 

bringing on any new production, 30 per cent of supply being 

removed isn’t sustainable.” 

De Beers also rarely produces the same type of smaller and 

lower-quality diamonds as those mined by Alrosa. De Beers 

mines in Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, and Canada. 

“As we head into the seasonally slower second quarter of 

the year, diamond businesses are adopting a more cautious 

and watchful approach in light of the war in Ukraine and 

associated sanctions, as well as COVID-19 lockdowns in 

China,” Cleaver added. 

India is hurting more than most. India plays host to the world’s 

largest supply of diamond cutting and polishing services, with 

approximately 90 per cent of the world’s rough supply passing 

through the diamond manufacturers in Surat. 

More than 250,000 workers were recently forced to take 

unpaid leave as a result of the supply shortage. Cutting and 

polishing factories have already closed and as long as Russia 

Pride of India 

Created by Greenlab. 

30.18-carat emerald 

cut diamond. Graded 

H colour, VS2 quality. 

Om 


A 27.27-carat marquise 

step-cut diamond. 

Unnamed 

Created by Shanghai 

Zhengsi Technology. 

16.41-carat princess cut, 

G colour grade. VVS2. 

Namah 


15.16-carat pear rose cut. 

is forced from the market, the greater the chances that more 

will follow suit. 

With India feeling the pinch more than most, it should come 

as no surprise that the industry’s movers and shakers have 

been quick to get on the front foot in search of a solution. 

And that solution may just be lab-grown diamonds; and if so, 

will be it be a short-term bandaid or a long-term trend? 

Lab-grown solution 

Paul Zimnisky, one of the world’s foremost global diamond 

industry analysts, believes that while lab-grown diamonds will 

almost certainly benefit from the exclusion of Alrosa from the 

global marketplace, analysis of change to international trade 

is rarely so straightforward. 

“I certainly think lab-grown diamonds will benefit from the 

sanctions on Russian diamonds, which is limiting the supply 

of natural diamonds,” Zimnisky says. 

“However, supply chain disruptions, related to lockdowns in 

China, could result in limited lab-diamond supply as well. 

“I think eventually Russian natural diamond supply will find a 

home, whether it be in China or the Middle East for example, 

but I think lab-diamond supply will continue to increase 

as new players keep entering the space and as existing 

producers ramp up production capacity and relative yields.” 

Lab-grown diamonds were already on the rise prior to the 

war in Ukraine, with Zimnisky estimating that global sales 

increased by 40 per cent in 2021 alone. The supply of labgrown 

diamonds is now believed to be around three million 

carats per year. 

If correct, that would mean lab-grown diamonds now account 

for more than 10 per cent of total diamond jewellery sales. 

Zimnisky has revised his predictions for the decade ahead, 

forecasting a 20 per cent annual increase in lab-diamond 

jewellery sales through to 2027. 

“I estimate that lab-grown diamond jewellery sales grew by 

as much as 25 per cent this past year and I am forecasting 

that sales will grow by at least that much this year. 

“For clarity, I forecast that supply volume will increase faster 

than supply value. I am forecasting that their market share in 

value will increase to 11-12 per cent in the coming years. 

I am forecasting that supply will increase, however, I am also 

forecasting that prices will continue to fall, which is offsetting 

some of the market share take.” 

Perception 

While these issues in the international wholesale channels 

disrupt the supply, it doesn’t mean it impacts consumer 

preference. 

That is, at the domestic consumer level, the general 

sentiment towards lab-grown diamonds remains very much 

divided. Jeweller contacted a number of Australian retailers to 


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The Perfect Storm | LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT 

Above: Alessa x Diamond Foundry; Moi moi; Vrai 

verify claims that more people are buying lab-grown diamonds 

in preference to natural stones. 

While it was commonly reported that customers are 

increasingly eager to learn more about lab-grown diamonds, 

many retailers remain staunchly wary of the product itself. 

Shiels Jewellers was founded in Adelaide in the 1940s and 

today, has 40 stores across Australia. Managing director Toby 

Bensimon says that from his perspective, lab-grown product 

is more popluar with younger people. 

“We have seen an increasing demand for lab-grown diamonds 

recently,” he says. 

“It is split demographically with some millennials preferring 

them over natural stones. As this demographic grows we 

expect demand to grow further. 

He adds: “Lab-grown diamonds are certainly not for everyone 

though, and many of our customers are firmly natural 

diamond lovers. 

Kerryn Hasler, managing director Ecali Fine Jewellery in 

Perth, echoes the sentiment that younger customers are 

increasingly interested. 

“I’ve definitely seen an increase in purchases and interest in 

lab-grown diamonds,” he explains. 

“I believe we were one of the first jewellers in Perth to have 

a lab-grown diamond range available. To test the market we 

introduced tennis bracelets, tennis necklaces, stud earrings, 

and solitaire pendants. 

“I would say that approximately 30 per cent of our engagement 

rings which we now sell, have a lab-grown diamond as the 

centre stone. 

Hasler continues: “The market seems to be the younger 

generation who are open to the idea of the diamonds being 

created in a laboratory. The older generation can’t get their 

heads around the fact that diamonds can be grown in a lab. 

“I think the younger generation is probably also more 

environmentally aware, and few shy away from the idea of 

mined diamonds, and the impact this has on the environment.” 

Passion revisited 

With more than 30 years of experience in the world of fine 

jewellery, Victoria Buckley is an eager supporter of the 

future of lab-grown diamonds. 

Buckley, who is based in Sydney, says that from a design 

perspective, they’ve become clearly favourable to natural 

diamonds. 

“I love lab diamonds as an alternative to traditional diamonds, 

and my clients are usually very open to them when I educate 

them on the advantages,” she says. 

Industry Insight 

Toby Bensimon 

Shiels Jewellers 

“Lab-grown diamonds are 

certainly not for everyone 

though, and many of our 

customers are firmly 

natural diamond lovers." 

Victoria Buckley 

Victoria Buckley Jewellery 

“As a designer, I lost 

interest in holding large 

traditional diamonds years 

ago. Everyone has been 

working with tightening 

diamond margins, so 

around 2017, it got to the 

point where I couldn’t 

see the value in working 

with larger traditional 

diamonds anymore. ” 

Paula Walden 

Paula Walden Fine Jewellery 

“Considered ’smart value’ 

and the sustainable option 

of being not ‘mined', I 

believe customers prioritise 

the benefit of receiving a 

better quality – in terms of 

colour and clarity – stone 

that is also larger.” 

“As a designer, I lost interest in holding large traditional 

diamonds years ago. Everyone has been working with 

tightening diamond margins, so around 2017, it got to the 

point where I couldn’t see the value in working with larger 

traditional diamonds anymore. Most jewellers have been 

working with shrinking profit margins, and diamond dealers 

have to be very competitive with their pricing as well. 

Buckley continues: “I can make beautiful pieces with 

good-sized lab-grown diamonds, that really showcase our 

engraving and craftsmanship. I believe that if the material 

looks and performs identically to the same material at a 

fraction of the price, then it has my full attention.” 

Questions unanswered 

This enthusiasm isn’t universal, however. Darren Daley has a 

background in jewellery manufacturing, as well as gemmology, 

and is the co-owner of 5th Avenue Jewellers in Brisbane. 

Daley says his business still only sells natural diamonds, and 

based on interactions with customers, he sees no reason for 

that to change any time soon. 

“Our business only sells natural gemstones, all of our 

marketing and advertising informs people of that, and I must 

state that I have genuinely not had a single enquiry in the past 

two to three years that synthetic diamonds have been pushed,” 

Daley tells Jeweller. 

"I estimate that lab-grown diamond jewellery sales 

grew by as much as 25 per cent this past year and I 

am forecasting that sales will grow by at least that 

much this year." 

- PAUL ZIMNISKY - 

“I fully understand the marketing of synthetic diamonds as 

being green and conflict-free. However, all-natural diamonds 

from reputable diamond merchants sold in Australia, are 

conflict-free. 

“I often look at the synthetic diamond market and wonder how 

many actually understand that the feed source of the carbon 

for CVD-grown synthetic diamonds, is methane, which is one 

of the largest pollutants on the planet. 

He adds: “That’s not to mention they use microwave energy 

in production and HPHT requires enormous amounts of 

energy to produce. I’m sure these companies may use solar 

panels, how much energy is coming from the grid? How green 

are they actually?” 

Daley also questioned the cost behind cutting and polishing 

lab-grown diamonds, particularly in comparison with the 

cutting and polishing process for natural diamonds. 


LAB-CREATED DIAMOND REPORT | The Perfect Storm 

CHART A: LAB-CREATED DIAMOND PRICE RELATIVE TO NATURAL 

PRICE DIFFERENTIAL BY POLISHED SIZES AT RETAIL 

All diamonds sampled in Zimnisky's research were round in shape, VS in clarity, 

F-H in colour, very good toideal cut with low fluorescence. Diamond prices were 

based on average survey of prices of generic loose stones by size category 

sampled from prominent diamond retailers. 

Source: PaulZimnisky.com, 2020 

This was an issue also raised by the founder of Holloway 

Diamonds, Garry Holloway, who outlined the potentially 

dramatic change in the market in the years to come. 

“Two years ago we added ‘only natural’ to our logo. I think at 

present, people are being ripped off,” Holloway says. 

“Jewellers should only take [lab-grown] consignment goods as 

prices will tip upside down in a year or two to almost nothing. 

“Larger lab-grown diamonds cost less per carat to grow and 

polish than smaller lab-grown diamonds. A natural diamond 

of twice the weight costs four times more. 

With India feeling the pinch more than most, it 

should come as no surprise that the industry’s 

movers and shakers have been quick to get on the 

front foot in search of a solution. 

“The GIA charges $399 to grade a four-carat diamond and 

$5,700 to grade 75 half-carat diamonds! It does my head 

in working out how much different weights should cost, 

but clearly, the four-carat should cost a lot less per carat 

than half-carats. Competition in the market will sort this 

out over time,” Holloway explains. 

He says that the word around the diamond trade is that 

smaller than half carat lab-grown diamonds are in short 

supply. 

Holloway adds, “Trusted brands will guarantee minimum 

quality standards, as De Beers has largely done with 

Lightbox LGDs. 

“That will cut out lab grading or a third of costs. Over time 

giving a lab-grown diamond as a special gift will cost less 

than Moissanite did while they were under patent. 

But lab-grown diamonds will establish a strong self-purchase 

market and when some people decide to go for the real thing 

their size expectations will be through the roof!" 

Not all retailers are as sharply divided. With a workshop 

and showroom located in Brisbane, Paula Walden, of Paula 

Walden Fine Jewellery, says she has observed an intriguing 

rise in interest from customers, however, she also says time 

will tell as to the staying power of lab-grown products. 

“There has definitely been an increase in interest, I would say 

three out of every five engagement ring sales would account 

for a lab-grown diamond,” Walden shares. 

“Considered ’smart value’ and the sustainable option of 

being not ‘mined', I believe customers prioritise the benefit 

of receiving a better quality – in terms of colour and clarity – 

Industry Insight 

Paul Zimnisky 

PZ Diamond Analytics 

“I certainly think lab-grown 

diamonds will benefit from the 

sanctions on Russian diamonds, 

which is limiting the supply of 

natural diamonds. However, 

supply chain disruptions, 

related to lockdowns in China, 

could result in limited labdiamond 

supply as well."” 

Kerryn Hasler 

Ecali Fine Jewellery 

“The market seems to be 

the younger generation who 

are open to the idea of the 

diamonds being created 

in a laboratory. The older 

generation can’t get their heads 

around the fact that diamonds 

can be grown in a lab. 

Garry Holloway 

Holloway Diamonds 

“Over time giving a lab-grown 

diamond as a special gift will 

cost less than Moissanite did 

while they were under patent. 

But lab-grown diamonds 

will establish a strong selfpurchase 

market and when 

some people decide to go 

for the real thing their size 

expectations will be through 

the roof!” 

stone that is also larger. 

“On a personal level, I don’t know if lab-grown diamonds 

are that sustainable. The energy to produce lab-growns is 

significant, however, these are just my assumptions. 

“When it comes to manufacturing, from a trade perspective, 

the margin is still greater from a natural.” 

Regardless of where one stands on the topic of lab-grown 

diamonds, there’s one fact on which most people agree – the 

manufacturing capabilities are improving and the results are 

beginning to show. 

Indian company Ethereal Green Diamond has, within the 

past month, created a record-breaking 30.18-carat emeraldcut 

lab-grown diamond, surpassing a world record set by 

Greenlab, another Indian synthetic diamond producer. 

Dubbed the Pride of India, the lab-grown diamond was 

graded H colour, VS2 quality, and certified by the International 

Gemmological Institute. The diamond was produced in four 

weeks using the chemical vapour deposition process. 

Greenlab’s 27.27-carat diamond was a marquise stepcut 

diamond, named Om. The IGI graded two additional 

lab-grown submissions by Greenlab, including Shivaya, an 

emerald-cut diamond weighing 20.24 carats, and Namah, 

a pear rose-cut, 15.16-carat polished. 

Previously, the largest known polished CVD diamond was a 

princess-cut, 16.41-carat, G-color, VVS2-clarity stone created 

by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology. The Gemological Institute 

of America (GIA) graded that diamond in January of this year. 

With a handful of factors in mind, 2022 may well have 

handed a free pass to the lab-grown diamond suppliers to 

capture a larger slice of the jewellery market; however, it 

will be some time before we know whether it transpired 

into a longer-term trend. 

Alrosa is excluded from the international marketplace 

for an indeterminate period of time, and De Beers has 

made it clear that it will be unable to significantly improve 

supply but these are industry issues that will eventually 

be resolved. Further, problems in the natural diamond 

supply chain doesn’t mean that consumers automatically 

purchase the man-made product. 

In addition, it’s clear that for some retailers, these problems 

do not mean they will stock lab-grown diamonds in preference 

to natural stones. 

That said, with manufacturing capabilities continuing to 

improve, along with an increasing number of customers 

indicating that they will embrace lab-grown diamonds – albeit 

off a low base – a portion of the supply shortfall will be filled 

by lab-grown diamonds, but the market at the retail and 

consumer levels will remain divided. 


PERSONALISED FEATURE FEATURE 

The Personalised Age of Individualism 

Jewellery 

THE AGE OF 

Inset image: Pandora 

Inlay Left ro Right: Foundrae 

Personalised jewellery remains as popular as ever, with consumers continuing to vote with their wallets in favour 

of products that present sentimental appeal. SAMUEL ORD explores some of the most important trends of 2022. 

J 

ewellery has long been used as a cultural 

signifier denoting status, mark, and even 

rank, and so in an age dominated by these 

appeals to individualism, it should come as no surprise 

that personalisation weighs heavily on the minds of 

consumers today. 

This desire to draw the lines of identity, from cultural status to 

occupation and personal bonds remains alive and well and before 

we go any deeper, we should take a second to define our terms, 

because after all – jewellery is almost always “personal” on some 

level, even when it’s not bespoke. 

Jewellery has long been considered a personalised purchase. 

Indeed all jewellery was bespoke – but in a climate of mass 

production and swelling product lines, retailers, suppliers and 

consumers could be forgiven for asking themselves what is 

personalised jewellery? 

Is it limited to custom-made pieces or does it include jewellery 

engraved with a personal message? Do items that allow 

consumers to customise with interchangeable elements fall 

under the personalised jewellery banner? 

Pandora still number one 

While charm and bead jewellery is nothing new – it dates back 

centuries – there can be no dispute that Pandora’s approach 

to personalised jewellery changed the world. From its humble 

beginning in Denmark in the early 1980s, Pandora has blossomed 

from a family-run business in Copenhagen to more than nearly 

7,000 stores worldwide. 

Much has been written over the years about the success of 

IN NUMBERS 

Big Picture 

2.3 billion 

Etsy's revenue 

($USD) in 2021 

worldwide 

1982 

The year Pandora 

was founded in 

Copenhagen 

41% 

Percentage of 

Australians who 

reportedly 'believe' 

in astrology 

1600s 

Birthstones 

first became 

commonplace in 

Europe 

Pandora’s unique charm bracelet – growing from a venture 

routinely rejected by retailers to a consistent doubling of sales 

each in the early 2000s – growing from $US4.5 million in 2000 

to over $US500 million in 2007. 

As a testament to the ability to ride on – or even create a 

consumer trend – only two decades later, the company employs 

27,000 people and in 2021 generated $US3.5 billion ($AU5.09 

billion) in revenue in 2021 – a company record. This, no doubt 

would annoy most naysayers who, in the early days, dismissed 

the product as ‘cheap costume jewellery’. It suggests that the 

brand still has the staying power that many dismissed early days. 

Earlier this year, Pandora unveiled plans for a new factory 

in Vietnam, the company’s first production facility outside of 

Thailand, where Pandora operates two factories. 

The factory in Vietnam is expected to cost $US100 million 

and will create jobs for 6,000 people, with plans for an annual 

capacity of 60 million pieces of jewellery manufactured – 

suggesting Pandora will remain at the top of the pyramid 

when it comes to personalised jewellery for some time to come. 

Not everything is as it seems 

Not everyone is as glowingly positive about Pandora’s 

performance. Freetrade investment writer Gemma Boothroyd 

spoke with Professional Jeweller following the release of 

Pandora’s Q1 figures and said the company was facing 

continued pressure. 

“Personalised products are Pandora’s crown jewel. But 

they might turn out to be the thorn in its side too,” she says. 

“The past few years have ushered in a slew of customisable 

jewellery marketplace platforms. The likes of Etsy and 


KEEPSAKE 

Thomas Sabo; Pandora 

Amazon Homemade have made it increasingly easy to buy tailor-made jewellery online. 

Historically, jewellers would struggle to gain scale in their sales and marketing efforts 

without a storefront or gallery showcasing their designs. 

Boothroyd says that online marketplaces and social media have changed the game, “and 

it’s turning out to be a challenge for jewellery behemoths like Pandora.” 

Whether that’s true or not, people’s preference for personalised products is unabated. 

According to Statista, an analytics company, Etsy presently has 96 million active users 

worldwide, culminating in $US2.3 billion in revenue last year. Etsy had seven million active 

sellers as of 2021. Per the company’s data from 2020, jewellery was the third most popular 

category. 

It has been said that the international jewellery market has experienced three consumer 

phenomena were windfalls for jewellery retailers ; the Japanese quartz watch, the SWATCH 

watch and Pandora. 

And while many jewellery brands have hopes of becoming the next Pandora – some have 

claimed they are – and most retailers would like 

to see another phenomenon, the fact is the personalisation trend continues perhaps, with new 

roads. 

Rediscovering an old canvas 

Heard the term earscaping? 

Pierced ears have long been a popular platform for expressing identity and today there’s an 

opportunity to go bigger than ever before. 

Also described as ‘curated ear-piercing design’, earscaping is about curating a selection of 

earrings that feature anywhere from the lobe, cartilage, rook, and any other pierceable location 

to create a striking and attention-grabbing design that’s personalised to the ear in question. 

There’s a chance to be unique with the selection and placement of each and every piece. 

"Personalised products are Pandora’s crown jewel. 

But they might turn out to be the thorn in its side too.” 

- GEMMA BOOTHROYD - 

It’s not a brand new phenomenon – STUDS, an “experimental retail, and e-commerce” 

business based in New York claims to have invented the term, however with growth in 

opportunities for designers using sites like Etsy, Amazon, and Facebook has come increased 

access to designs. 

“It’s not that the concept of ‘earscaping’ hasn’t been done before,” writes Liana Satenstein for 

Vogue. 

“Piercings have been around for thousands of years; styles varying within different cultures –but 

the lingo encapsulates the current trendy metropolitan vibe of ear piercings. 

“Just as you might go out for a cocktail, a girls’ weekend could just as easily include a new 

addition to an earscape.” 

Many celebrities and prominent social media figures have given the practice of earscaping a 

boost in recent months. The biggest of all may well be singer Dua Lipa, one of the world’s most 

popular pop stars who has rapidly become a fashion icon. 

At the Grammys, the singer was spotted with a diamond flower, a hoop, and an evil eye 

post, grounded by a larger gold safety pin. 

Tried and true 

No exploration of personalised jewellery is complete with an acknowledgement of zodiac 

and birthstone jewellery. 

The trend of wearing gemstones connected to birth is believed to originate in Europe around 

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The Age of Individualism | PERSONALISED FEATURE 

Below and right: Megan Fox wearing 

Established zodiac pendant; Dua Lipa 

sporting the earscaping trend; Briony 

Raymond zodiac pendants. 

Left to Right: David Webb; Aletheia & Phos; Mercii; Megan Fox's engagement 

ring by Stephen Webster; Rihanna's charm bracelet by Annoushka. 

the 16th century. During the Victorian era, birthstones were the stone 

of choice to mark an engagement. This phenomenon was of course 

eventually superseded by a preference for diamonds. 

Birthstone jewellery is consistently popular but received a major boost 

earlier this year with the public engagement of actress Megan Fox and 

musician Colson Baker (Machine Gun Kelly). 

Baker presented Fox with a ring created by designer Stephen Webster. 

The ring features two jewels – one untreated Colombian emerald 

to denote Fox’s birth in May 1986, and a D-colour diamond to mark 

Baker’s birth in April 1990. 

The band is designed to resemble a thorn, making the ring painful to 

remove. I guess love really does hurt! 

British fine jewellery designer Stephen Webster says working 

with birthstones remains a straightforward tactic to add personal 

significance to design. 

“During the creative process Colson had mentioned that Megan’s 

birthstone is emerald which he wanted to incorporate in some way, along 

with a diamond, his birthstone,” Webster tells Nashville Lifestyle. 

“The resulting ring actually consists of two rings which by the use of 

magnets buried within the gold, are attracted to each other and sit together 

perfectly on the finger, a detail that is both modern and quite extraordinary.” 

Stars above 

Zodiac jewellery meanwhile rose to mainstream popularity in the 1930s 

and again in the 1970s, via French jewellery houses attempting to make the 

most of the Age of Aquarius cultural trend. 

New York fine jewellery designer Briony Raymond has dominated the 

spotlight in 2022 when it comes to zodiac jewellery. 

With a background in gemmology and art history, Raymond has supplied a 

number of prominent celebrities with zodiac-inspired pieces. 

Musician Robyn Fenty (Rihanna) is often seen sporting a necklace featuring 

a Pisces medallion, her star sign. Raymond also designed a necklace for 

the singer dominated by Libra themes, worn in tribute to her musician 

partner Rakim Mayers (ASAP Rocky). 

Rihanna is far from the only A-lister to seek Raymond’s services – Jennifer 

Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Gigi Hadid, and Lily James are just a few of the 

names to be spotted in Raymond’s work. 

“Many of us have looked to our star signs as a way to prophesise our future 

and encourage us on the hardest of days,” Raymond tells the Robb Report. 

“I see wearing your sign as a way to keep this sense of comfort from 

the stars closest to you and it was with this ethos in mind that I 

was inspired to design a collection of luxurious everyday talismans 

incorporating the signs of the zodiac.” 

Another key promoter of zodiac jewellery worth acknowledging is, of

Red Carpet 

Collection 

course, Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex. Markle wears Taurus and 

Virgo zodiac pendants, the star signs of her son Archie and husband Prince 

Harry, sourced from Canadian jewellery brand Suetables. 

Markle is also enthusiastic about birthstones too. Her custom-made 

Lorraine Schwartz eternity ring features peridot, sapphire, and emerald, 

the birthstones of herself, her husband, and her son. 

Sensory heaven 

Jewellery appeals to a person's sense of sight. It also appeals to a person’s 

sense of touch. Why not the sense of smell, too? 

Fragranced jewellery, or scented jewellery, is a niche product which has 

lurked in the shadows of mainstream appeal but has always failed to 

break through. 

The key thing holding back the concept appears to be design. How a 

manufacturer can produce a piece which continues to emit a fragrance 

over time, without it being overwhelming or overpowering, is a 

complicated equation. 

Red Carpet Collection Launches this July 

The practice is actually centuries old. Jewellers have been creating 

scent-themed pieces since the Victorian period, but the concept has 

swung in and out of vogue. 

Based in Los Angeles, Lisa Hoffman is one of the industry’s leaders in 

fragrance-enriched jewellery design. 

Hoffman is the wife of actor Dustin Hoffman – the star of films such as 

Rain Man and The Graduate – says that a fusion of jewellery and fragrances 

provokes strong memory recall. 

“The sense of smell, more than any other sense, has the power to recall 

memories,” Hoffman says. 

“Memories, imagination, old sentiments, and associations are more readily 

reached through our sense of smell more than any other of our senses.” 

Locally, designer Sheree, owner of Shaille Chainmaille, is one of many 

Australian jewellery designers combining fragrance with jewellery. 

Among the items featured in Shaile Chainmaille’s catalogue is a stainless 

steel whirly bird necklace which presents the customer with the chance to 

add a scent of their choosing. 

While scented jewellery will continue to jump in and out of fashion, one 

thing is for sure – major retailers will continue to search for that magical 

combination, as fragrances and perfumes and fine jewellery are both 

intimately connected under the ‘luxury’ umbrella. 

Just this month, Chanel opened a new flagship store in Perth (Western 

Australia) and the Raine Square location is being marketed as a 

combination of “fashion, beauty and fragrance.” 

Oh, and how’s this for personalisation? In an Australian first, the change 

rooms at Chanel’s Perth store can be personalised to customers’ preferred 

airflow, music and lighting. 

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A QUARTERLY SPOTLIGHT ON COLOURED GEMSTONES JULY 2022 

COLOUR 

FOCUS 

THIS MONTH 

Australian 

Gemstones 

52 RED CARPET 

COLLECTION 

Who dazzled with this 

Bulgari necklace? 

Turn to page 52 to find out. 

Index 

COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE 

Australiana 

Jeweller discovers the chemical and structural causes 

of colour in captivating natural Australian gemstones, 

from pink diamonds to sapphires. 

44 

45 

52 

IN DEPTH 

Dive into gem trivia 

COLOUR INVESTIGATION FEATURE 

Distinctive Australian gemstones 

RED CARPET COLLECTION 

This month’s colours dazzle 

Diamond 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 

REFRACTIVE INDEX 

TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Diamond 

Greek adamas, meaning 'invincible' 

10 

2.417 - 2.419 

Irradiation, high pressure, heat 

Colorless, yellow, brown; rarely white, 

black, red, orange, gray, black 

QUICK PROFILE 

8 Popular 

Australian 

Gemstones 

Zircon 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Zircon 

Persian zargun, meaning gold-hued 

7 to 7.5 

1.810 to 2.024 

Natural, heated 

Blue, red, yellow, orange, brown, green 

Sapphire 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Topaz 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Emerald 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Corundum 

Greek sappheiros, meaning blue stone 

9 

1.76 - 1.78 

Heat 

Blue, green, and teal (among others) 

Topaz 

Greek Topazios, a small island in the 

Red Sea, now called Zabargad. 

8 

1.610 - 1.638 

Natural, layered, heated 

All colours 

Beryl 

Ancient Greek smaragdos, meaning 

green gemstone 

7.5 - 8 

1.56 - 1.58 

Oiling and other fracture filling 

Bluish green to green 

HONOURABLE 

MENTIONS 

• Ruby 

• Garnet 

• Chalcedony 

• Agate 

• Jade 

• Jasper 

• Prehnite 

Chrysophrase 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

White & Black Opal 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

South Sea Pearl 

VARIETY 

ETYMOLOGY 

HARDNESS 


TREATMENTS 

COLOURS 

Quartz 

Greek chrysos, meaning 'gold' prasinon 

meaning 'green' 

7-7.5 

1.530 to 1.540 

Natural 

Green 

Hydrated Silica 

Sanskrit upala ‘precious stone’ 

5.0 to 6.6 

1.37-1.48 

Natural, colour boost, heat, resin, wax, 

oil 

All colours 

Calcium Carbonate 

Named for their pacific origin 

7 

2.5 - 4 

Bleached, Irradiation, Dyed, Coating 

Silvery-white and gold 

LEARN ABOUT THESE GEMSTONES IN DEPTH: JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM

AUSTRALIAN GEMSTONES 

In Depth 

PROVENANCE SNAPSHOT 

TOP 5 GEMSTONE PRODUCING STATES 

Jasper 

Pilbara region 

(Western Australia) 

Northern Territory 

• Jasper 

• South Sea Pearl 

• Chrysoberyl 


• Emerald 

Queensland 

• Agate 

• Sapphire 

• Chrysophrase 

• Topaz 

• Zircon 

Chalcedony 

Western Australia 

Jade 

South Australia 

Diamond 

New South Wales 


Kimberley Region 

Sapphire 

Queensland 


Victoria 

Tasmania 

Zircon 

Tasmania 


Queensland 

Chrysophrase 

Queensland 

South Sea Pearl 



• Jasper 

• South Sea Pearl 

• Chrysoberyl 

Topaz 


Queensland 

• Emerald 


(New England Area) 

Victoria 

Killiecrankie Flinders Island 

(near Tasmania) 


• Jade 

• White & Black Opal 


• Emerald 

• Diamond 

• Sapphire 

• Zircon 

• Topaz 

• Ruby 

• Black & White Opal 

Tasmania 

• Sapphire 

• Zircon 

• Agate 

Chrysoberyl 


Emerald 



White & 

Black Opal 

Queensland 



Ruby 


Garnet 


Agate 

Queensland 

Northern 

Territory 

Tasmania 

Agate takes more 

than 50 million 

years to form. 

2 MILLION Cost of Blake 

Lively's pink diamond engagement 

ring, given to her by Ryan Reynolds. 

"Now the melancholy 

God protect thee, 

and the tailor make 

thy garments of 

changeable taffeta, 

for thy mind is opal..” 

WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE 

Around 95% of the world's 

opals come from Australia. 

“Life is made 

up of a few 

moments all 

strung together 

like pearls. 

Each moment 

is a pearl, and 

it is up to us to 

pick the ones 

with the highest 

luster.” 

JOYCE HILFER 

1851 

The first sapphire 

discovery. Found 

during the mining 

of gold on the rivers 

of Macquarie and 

Cudgegong rivers in 

New South Wales. 

Jalan Jalan 

Jasper is 

the mystical 

birthstone for 

the month of 

October. 

12.76-carats 

WEIGHT OF 

THE PINK JUBILEE 

THE LARGEST PINK 

DIAMOND ROUGH 

Australia's opal fields are bigger than those 

found in the rest of the world combined. 

Emerald has always held a 

special place in mythology. 

It is said that the Roman 

Emperor Nero used to view 

the gladiator fights through 

an Emerald because of its 

color’s calming effect. 

Chrysoprase was used by 

the Greeks, Romans, and 

the Egyptians in jewelry 

and other ornamental 

objects and because of its 

semi-opaque green color, 

it is often mistaken for 

Imperial jadeite. 

3 million 

Cost of the The Royal One, the largest 

black opal in the world weighing 

306-carats. It was discovered by a 

miner who kept it a secret, hidden in 

his home, for fourteen years before 

he decided to part with it. 


AUSTRALIAN GEMSTONES 

Colour Investigation 

UNDERSTANDING GEMSTONE COLOUR 

The distinctively elegant 

gemstones of Australia 

Aside from being a unique and naturally-rich country, 

Australia not only boasts beautiful pristine beaches, 

diverse wildlife, and the amazing outback. It is also 

home to some of the most prized, rare and elegant 

gemstones in the world. 

Diamonds 

Australia is home to some of the world’s oldest minerals and rocks, many of which are some of the 

most sought-after gemstones by enthusiasts and collectors from every corner of the globe. 

A beguiling, elegant and expensive byproduct of the most 

common element found on earth – carbon – diamonds 

are one of the most much-coveted jewels on Earth, 

never ceasing to captivate and mystify people since the 

dawn of time. 

Diamonds are crystallised pure carbon and come in a 

different range of colours such as brown, yellow, blue, 

purple, red and pink, as a result of the inclusion of 

minerals throughout their natural development stages, 

spanning millions of years. 

The distinctive properties - optical and physical - of 

diamonds are reputedly the most lustrous among 

transparent gemstones taken from the Greek word 

Adamas or “invincible” given the stone’s hardness which 

is rated 10 on the Mohs scale. 

Australia has been one of the foremost sources of 

diamonds worldwide, producing some of the finest and 

rarest colour diamond pieces in the jewellery world. 

Diamond production in Australia traces back to Bathurst, 

New South Wales in 1851. Mining took off in 1867 which 

produced large quantities of diamonds in the Copeton and 

Bingara alluvial deposits until 1922. 

From there small-scale, low-profile diamond production 

and explorations continued throughout Australia. 

During the mid-1970s, geologists discovered 23 low-grade 

45 

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QUICK 

FACTS 

465 

The Number of 

carats of garnet 

believed to be 

owned by the 

King of Saxony 

1851 

The year 

Sapphires were 

first extracted 

from a NSW 

river by miners 

$10K 

The cost per 

carat high 

quality black 

opal 

diamondiferous pipes in Ellendale in Western Australia. 

That was followed by the discovery of alluvial deposits 

at Kimberley’s Argyle in 1979 which would become the 

world’s richest diamond deposit. 

The Argyle mine was the largest diamond producer in 

terms of volume, and supplied a third of the world’s 

diamonds annually, and produced some of the rarest 

stones with the highest diamond grades. 

Beginning in the late 1980s, Rio Tinto – which operated 

Argyle – supplied more than 90 per cent of the world’s 

pink diamonds, until it mining operations ceased in 

November 2020 after producing more than 865 million 

carats throughout its 37 years of operation. 

Diamond mining operations are expected to be 

revived by the end of 2022 at the mothballed Ellendale 

mine. The Merlin mine is targeted to resume operations 

in 2023. 

Here are some of the most notable diamonds from 

Australia; 

> A highly-sought 104.73-carat rough exquisite white 

diamond was discovered in the Merlin mine in 2002 

and is reputed to be one of the largest diamonds 

found in Australia. 

> Another rare piece is a 35.26-carat rough brown 

diamond also unearthed from the Merlin mine in 2017, 

which is considered to be the fifth-largest diamond 

recorded from the continent. 

> The Argyle Octavia is a 28.84-carat white diamond 

discovered in 2019. It is one of the largest white 

diamonds to come from the Argyle mine. 

> The largest pink diamond in Australia is the 12.8-carat 


Colour Investigation | AUSTRALIAN GEMSTONES 

Left to Right: Naomi Sarna; Margot McKinney; Sapphire Dreams 

light pink diamond, known as the Argyle Jubilee, 

which was unearthed in 2012. It was cut and 

polished down to an 8.01-carat gem and is 

currently on display at the Melbourne Museum. 

> Another one on the list of Australia’s largest 

gemstones is an 8.43-carat fancy yellow 

diamond discovered in 2017 at the Blina project 

in Ellendale. The diamond was discovered two 

years after the mine was officially closed as 

explorations continued. 

Sapphires 

A member of the corundum family, Sapphires are 

allochromatic minerals, deriving their colour from 

chemical impurities in their crystal structure. 

These impurities absorb specific parts of the 

light spectrum, and the remaining light reflected 

gives the gemstone its alluring colour. 

Sapphires contain traces of titanium, iron, and 

nickel, which provides them with a range of 

colours including blue, orange, black, green, 

yellow and pink. The more iron the sapphire 

contains, the darker the colour. 

The most common varieties are blue sapphires, 

and gems sporting a rich blue to violet colour 

are the most desirable pieces. Sapphires rank 

second to diamonds in terms of hardness, which 

is rated nine on the Mohs scale. 

The term “sapphire” means blue corundum and 

when the gem is not blue, the colour adopted in the 

name for identification, with examples being the 

green sapphire, pink sapphire or yellow sapphire. 

On the yellow to orange spectrum, colours 

range from strongly saturated golden yellows 

typical in Australia, to soft pastel tones seen 

in Ceylon sapphires. 

Sapphires are often heat-treated to eliminate 

silk inclusions to enhance the richness and 

clarity of colour. 

One distinctly home-grown pride of Australia 

is the colour-changing sapphire which comes 

from central Queensland and possesses unique 

and unusual properties. The gemstones change 

colour from yellow to pink, brown to green, or 

golden orange to orange-green. 

Sapphires were first extracted in Australia in 

1851 by gold miners on the Macquarie and 

Cudgegong rivers in New South Wales, with 

commercial mining beginning in 1919. Sapphire 

production in eastern Australia was limited until 

mechanised mining technology was introduced 

in the late 1950s. 

Sapphires contain traces of titanium, 

iron, and nickel, which provides them with 

a range of colours including blue, orange, 

black, green, yellow and pink. The more 

iron the sapphire contains, the darker 

the colour. 

By the 1980s, Australia became source of around 

70 per cent of the world’s sapphires, which mostly 

came from New South Wales. As mechanised 

mining became more common and introduced in 

other countries, Australia’s share of the market 

dropped to around 20 to 30 per cent. 

Sapphires are found in all eastern Australian 

states, including Tasmania. In New South Wales, 

sapphires were mined in the New England 

region around Glen Innes and Inverell, as well 

as the northwest of Goulburn, near Oberon. The 

Kings Plains area near Inverell has some of the 

richest gem-quality sapphire deposits. 

Corundum has also been mined in central 

Queensland, as has Rubyvale, Anakie, the Willows, 

Glenalva and the aptly named Sapphire. Additionally, 

sapphires were recovered from rundown tin 

workings along Tasmania’s Weld River. 

Opals 

Opals are multi-coloured hydrated amorphous 

gemstones consisting of small silica spheres 

arranged in a regular pattern, with water 

naturally infused between the spheres. 

The spheres diffract white light that breaks up 

into the different colours of the spectrum in a 

process called opalescence. Larger spheres 

allow for many colours throughout their 

structure, while smaller ones contain only 

greens and blues. 

Opals with predominantly red colours are very 

rare and are found in areas where larger silica 

spheres were deposited. Opals are frequently 

layered and the presence of a rare red layer 

at the base in the thinnest portion of the vein 

indicates that gravity naturally contributed to the 

arrangement of the silica spheres over time. 

White opals possess delicate, pale colours on 

a lighter background, while black opals are 

very rare and highly desired due to their dark 

background, with colours ranging from brilliant 

red through to greens, blues and purples. 

Boulder opals are cut and polished with a natural 

host rock called ironstone on the backside. 

Most precious opals are found in sandstones and 

mudstones that developed during the Cretaceous 

era. Sedimentary rocks that have been deeply 


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GEMSTONE FACTS 

CHRYSOPHRASE 

Chrysoprase is a 

cryptocrystalline form 

of silica containing 

small amounts of 

nickel, presenting as a 

traditionally apple-green 

gemstone, although dark 

green varieties have also 

been discovered. 

The word chrysoprase 

comes from the Greek 

term “chrysos” meaning 

gold and “prasinon” 

meaning green. 

Chrysoprase was popular with 

Greek, Roman, and Egyptian 

societies for its use in making 

seals, signets, jewellery, as 

well as other ornaments. 

The highest quality 

chrysoprase is found in 

Queensland, Australia, 

earning the gemstone the 

misleading nickname 

“Australian jade”, despite 

the chemical structure of 

chrysoprase differing greatly 

from that of jade. 

weathered produce silica that is released into the groundwater. 

Small faults and joints in the rocks formed the pathways that 

drove groundwater further down the earth’s surface. 

The strong interlocking barriers between the sandstone and 

rocks trap the silica-carrying groundwater which slowly hardens 

into a gel that forms opal veins and lenses. 

To date, Australia is the only place on Earth where opalised 

animal and plant fossils are found. Small opalised dinosaurs and 

primitive mammalian remains were found at Lightning Ridge in 

New South Wales, along with prehistoric shallow marine shellfish 

and crustaceans. 

Perhaps the most popular opalised fossil is that of Eric the 

Pliosaur – a Cretaceous marine vertebrate discovered in Coober 

Pedy and has become a prized collection at the Australian 

Museum. Not only was the opalised skeleton of the dinosaur 

fossil well-preserved, but its stomach contents, believed to be a 

final meal of fish, were also turned to opal. 

Opalised fish bones and shelly molluscs are also fairly common 

at Coober Pedy, South Australia and are desired and valued 

according to their appearance and intensity of the play of colours. 

Most opals are cream-coloured and lobe-shaped minerals 

resembling a pinecone or pineapple with a distinctive blue sheen. 

Mineral replacement with opal can also occur, such as ‘opal 

pineapples’ found at White Cliffs, New South Wales which are 

opal pseudomorphs of the mineral ikaite. 

Opals are multi-coloured hydrated amorphous gemstones 

consisting of small silica spheres arranged in a regular 

pattern, with water naturally infused between the spheres. 

Queensland opal deposits are situated in non-marine 

sedimentary rocks and opalised animal remains are very rare, 

however, fossil wood fragments showing annual growth rings - 

similar to trees - and cellular wood textures that, at times, are 

fascinatingly replaced with precious opal. 

Opal was first mined commercially in 1875 at Listowel Downs in 

Queensland and later at White Cliffs in New South Wales. Today, 

Coober Pedy in South Australia is the primary producer of white opal 

and in recent years, the mine has expanded. Other opal production 

centres in South Australia include Mintabe and Andamooka. 

Other major opal production sites are Lightning Ridge in New 

South Wales renowned for black opals and White Cliffs which 

was a large producer of high-quality opal. 

Boulder opals are mined in Queensland in an area extending 

from the Eulo and Cunnamulla districts in the south and 

northwest extending over 700 kilometres to Kynuna in the 

north. The towns of Yowah, Quilpie, and Winton are the main 

opal mining and trading centres. 

South Sea Pearls 

Among the world’s most prized pearls, known for their 

exceptionally lustrous beauty, Australia is a major producer 

of South Sea pearls.

AUSTRALIAN GEMSTONES | Colour Investigation 

South Sea pearls can only be cultured from the 

Pinctada maxima oyster species with meticulous 

care in pristine environmental conditions. 

These oysters are found in the Indian and Pacific 

oceans off the coasts of Australia, Indonesia, 

Myanmar and the Philippines. 

South Sea pearls have a thick nacre and distinctive 

lustre compared to the smaller Akoya pearls which 

are cultured in China, India and Japan. The classic 

white is the most desired of all colours in South Sea 

pearls, followed by pearls with rarer golden tones. 

The oysters in which South Sea pearls are grown 

determine the specimen’s colour. The silver-lipped or 

white-lipped oyster variety that produces white pearls 

with a silvery overtone is found in the waters around 

northern Australia and southern Indonesia. Other 

notable and valuable colours include bluish 

and pinkish overtones. 

The South Sea pearls are the largest among the 

cultured pearl varieties. The average South Sea pearl 

takes approximately four years to develop, which 

can take longer when producing larger pearls. Their 

size ranges from 8mm to 22mm, of which the larger 

specimens are rarer and more valuable. 

Topaz 

Another gemstone with a fascinatingly radiant optical 

phenomenon is topaz. Imperial topaz – specifically 

the pink-orange variety – is the most valuable of 

topaz colours. 

Topaz is a fluoro-silicate of aluminium, usually 

colourless, but can also be white, yellow, blue, 

orange, brown, green, pink or light shades of 

grey. Unlike other gemstones, it is not always the 

impurities in the crystal that give topaz its colour. 

While certain impurities and structural defects in 

the crystal structure produce colours, such as the 

presence of chromium results in a red or pink 

variety, it is believed that trace iron atoms in the 

topaz’s crystal lattice combined with natural 

irradiation are responsible for the play of colours. 

There are two dominant coloured centres in topaz 

produced by either a gap or an extra electron in the 

crystal structure. Such anomalies absorb certain 

parts of light that shine into the crystal to produce 

either blue or yellow shades of colour. 

Green topaz has a mixture of yellow-and blue-type 

centres. When chromium replaces aluminium in the 

crystal structure of topaz, the crystal appears red or 

Murazzo


Left to Right: Murazzo; Lydia Courteille; Autore 

pink. Crystals with a chromium impurity and a 

yellow-coloured centre result in an orange topaz. 

Topaz crystals have perfect cleavage, which tends 

to break along certain plains that are perpendicular 

to the long axis of the crystal. The gemstone is 

quite fragile, although it has a hardness rating of 

eight on the Mohs scale which exists in sections 

rather than the whole gemstone crystal. 

Hardness is the resistance to scratching, but 

breakage resistance is called tenacity. Since topaz 

is fragile, the gemstone is difficult to cut and set. 

In Australia, topaz is often found in deposits 

that are derived from granite shaped as round 

or angular lumps. Topaz can also be found 

in coarse-grained granites, sedimentary and 

metamorphic rocks. 

Gem-quality topaz is found in the fields of the Oban, 

Torrington, and Mitchell Rivers in the New England 

area of New South Wales and Lightning Ridge. 

In Queensland, the largest topaz deposits are 

located near Mount Garnet and Mount Surprise, 

as well as deposits near Victoria, Beechworth, 

Coolgardie and Menzies region of Western 

Australia and Flinders Island in Tasmania. Topaz 

sourced in Flinders Island are known locally as 

Killiecrankie Diamond. 

Primary topaz is also found in metamorphic 

rocks at Broken Hill and granite at Ardlethan 

in New South Wales. 

Most of Australia’s topaz are associated 

with alluvial gravels and small-scale mining 

operations. 

Dry sieving is the common method used to 

separate the gems from the other gravels. Gravel 

taken from the deposit is shovelled into a shaker 

box and shaken until the topaz crystals appear 

along with large residual pebbles. 

At Killiecrankie Bay, topaz is collected by digging 

and sieving the beach sediments from just below 

the high watermark. 

Emerald 

Emeralds are gemstones that belong to the beryl 

family. Prized and collected for thousands of 

years emeralds have become a popular feature 

in the myths and legends of different cultures 

worldwide. 

In Australia, emeralds are associated with granite 

pegmatites and metamorphosed rocks referred 

to as schists, similar to altered limestone, or 

embedded in quartz or calcite. 

Pegmatites are formed when magma is cooled 

and leaves behind certain elements in the 

remaining fluid. Emerald crystals develop when 

the remaining solution cools together with the 

presence of certain elements such as beryllium. 

In Australia, emeralds are associated with 

granite pegmatites and metamorphosed 

rocks referred to as schists, similar to altered 

limestone, or embedded in quartz or calcite. 

Emeralds can also develop in veins in the earth’s 

crust from hot liquids that escape from a deeper 

magma. 

Synthetic emeralds or “created emeralds” are 

produced by flux-growth or hydrothermal processes. 

In the flux-growth process, crystals develop 

by dissolving chromium, beryllium and certain 

elements in a molten flux to allow crystallisation 

on a seed of beryl. The flux is comprised of 

chemicals that maintain a liquid state at high 

temperatures, such as lithium oxide, molybdenum 

oxide and vanadium oxide. 

The hydrothermal synthesis technique, on the 

other hand, involves components dissolved in 

an acidic solution at high temperatures and 

pressures, which then allows for crystallisation to 

occur in a cooler chamber. Another method has 

been invented to produce an emerald overgrowth 

on colourless beryl. 

Emeralds in Australia are commercially mined 

from three main deposits found in New South 

Wales and Western Australia. The emeralds are 

usually found in layers of rocks along with other 

minerals such as mica. Open-pit or terrace 

mining are the most common methods of 

extracting emeralds. 

Most of the gem-quality emeralds come from the 

New England area of New South Wales, along 

with beryl and aquamarine. The largest emerald 

deposit is found in the Torrington and Emmaville 

areas, as well as deposits near Dundee, Inverell 

and Glen Innes. 

Emeralds usually contain fissures, cracks, 

and inclusions and as a result, most emeralds 

are immersed in oil to reduce the visibility of 

inclusions to improve clarity. 

Emeralds can be cut and carved into many 

shapes, but due to their brittleness, the gems 

are often cut into rectangular shapes known as 

the emerald cut. The cutting method is designed 

to minimise breakage of the crystal corners, as 

well as help bring out the bright colours of the 

gemstone. 

Chrysoprase 

Chrysoprase is one of the most prized examples 

of a chalcedony gemstone, valued for its vibrant 

green colour and rarity. It is created through the 


AUSTRALIAN GEMSTONES | Colour Investigation 

Left to Right: Raw seam opal stack 

from White Cliff opal fields; White 

Cliff opal pineapple discovered by 

Grant Pearson; Paspaley 

weathering of serpentine and consists mostly of 

silicon dioxide. 

As the elements break down, the serpentine, 

nickel, silica and other iron oxides are dissolved 

out of stone and collected in crevices, cracks and 

clay. Although most green stones owe their colour 

to chromium or vanadium, chrysoprase derives 

its colour from the presence of disseminated 

particles of hydrated nickel silicate and ranges 

in colour from apple green to a deep rich green. 

It is usually translucent but unlike many nontransparent 

members of the quartz family the 

colour of chrysoprase, rather than their patterns 

or markings, makes it more desirable and 

valuable. 

Due to its bright, even colour and texture, 

chrysoprase is often cut into cabochons, beads 

and a base for intricate carvings. It is popularly 

used for intaglios and cameos, dating back 

to Greek and Roman times and used lavishly 

throughout Europe until the middle of the last 

century, when it became rare and more expensive. 

Chrysoprase is primarily sourced from central 

Queensland in Australia and due to its abundance, 

is often referred to as “Australian jade”. 

The best quality chrysoprase is produced from 

the Marlborough deposits near Rockhampton 

in central Queensland. The gemstones are also 

found in numerous locations in Western Australia 

such as the Marshall Pool, Yerilla, Yundamindra, 

Jamieson and Wingellina deposits. 

The name ‘chrysoprase’ is derived from the Greek 

word “chryos”, meaning golden and “prason”, 

meaning leek or green. The gemstone was given 

its name in the 18th century when a vein was 

discovered in Silesia – which is now Poland - at 

the time of Frederick the Great of Prussia, who 

held a particular fondness for the gem. 

Among his favourites was a walking stick adorned 

with a knob of chrysoprase and a ring set with a 

large chrysoprase surrounded by 15 diamonds. 

The gemstone was believed to bring supernatural 

and spiritual protection, prevent depression, 

promote equilibrium and increase fertility. 

Due to its excellent durability, chrysoprase is 

widely used in jewellery-making. It is rated 6.5 to 

7 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it resilient 

and suited for jewellery and carving. 

It is easily handled for creative and artistic 

designs as it takes on a fine polish. The toughness 

of the gemstone makes it a very forgiving stone 

and allows for carvings and fine workmanship 

that brings out the brilliance when reflecting 

ambient light. 

Chrysoprase is primarily sourced from 

central Queensland in Australia and due 

to its abundance, is often referred to as 

“Australian jade”. 

Chrysoprase jewellery can be worn daily and 

maintained using an ultrasonic jewellery cleaner 

or with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. The 

gemstone’s vibrant hue can fade in the sunlight 

over time due to dehydration, which deprives the 

gemstone of its colouring agent. The gemstone 

can lose its lustre when it dries but can be 

restored by soaking in water. 

Zircon 

Zircon is considered to be the oldest mineral on 

earth and Australia has the largest and oldest 

deposits, dating back more than 4.4 billion years. 

The most prominent source of Australian zircon 

is the Mud Tank Zircon Field in the Harts Range 

area situated some 1,220 kilometres south to 

southeast of Darwin in the Northern Territory. 

First explored in the 1940s, the area is well-known 

amongst fossickers and speculators for 

its top-quality zircon, specifically from two 

locations the Zircon Hill and Specimen Hill. 

Waterworn zircon crystals occur mostly in the 

low-lying areas between the two hills. 

Prized for its diamond-like lustre, intense fire, 

brilliance and strong double refraction, zircon 

sets itself apart from the rest of the gem-quality 

minerals. 

The zircons of Australia display beautiful earthy 

tones of sherry, cinnamon, cognac, pinks, plums, 

yellow, and orange, as well as gemstones that are 

partially coloured and colourless. 

Zircon may occur as small, doubly terminated 

crystals or chips, and larger specimens may show 

well-developed crystal faces and are often found 

intermixed with sapphire in deposits associated 

with tertiary volcanic deposits in Tasmania and 

northern Queensland. 

The zircon gemfields of northern New South 

Wales and central Queensland produce 

gemstones ranging from colourless to 

champagne and orange-red. 

Australian zircons are often heat-treated to 

lighten, or to make them colourless, and are 

prized for their lustre, brilliance, colour intensity, 

and strong double refraction. Golden brown 

gemstones can be similar to citrine or topaz. 

Zircon contains traces of uranium, which 

allows for self-irradiating and the changing of 

properties. It is classified into three types – high, 

intermediate and low. The gemstones are rated 

7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. 


AUSTRALIAN 

Red Carpet Collection 

STARS SHINE IN COLOUR 

Gemstones in the Spotlight 

The A-list have given their seal of approval to statement gems – be inspired by these colourful jewellery pieces worn on the red carpet. 

4 Looking like something 

found in the Garden of 

Aphrodite, Chopard's 

intricately designed orchid 

earrings. Designed by 

Caroline Scheufele, coloured 

titanium, diamond tsavorite, 

and opal come together with 

deep mauve garnet. 

Chopard 

Chopard 

SAPPHIRE – Léa Seydoux, 

Golden Globes 2015 

OPAL – Sharon Stone, The amfAR Cannes 

Gala 2021 

Lorraine Schwartz 

SOUTH SEA PEARL, DIAMOND AND 

EMERALD – Blake Lively, The Rhythm 

Section Premiere 2020 

Sutra 

OPAL – Jennifer Hudson, Academy 

Awards, 2013 

Anna Hu 

SAPPHIRE – Naomi Watts 

Academy Awards 2015 

Irene Neuwirth 

SOUTH SEA PEARL – Tracee Ellis Ross, 

Golden Globes 2018 

4 Jessica McCormack 

presents emerald and pearl 

earrings with a taste of 

Australia. Each earring is set 

with a 3.20-carat emerald-cut 

Columbian emerald with two 

Australia Keshi, pear-shaped 

pearl drops. Handcrafted in 

18-carat blackened white and 

yellow gold with a total weight 

of 6.30 carats. 

Harry Winston 

Jessica McCormack 

SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND – Helen 

Mirren, Oscars 2018 

EMERALD AND PEARL – Zoe Kravitz, The 

Batman, London Premiere 2022 


Featuring the delicate pink tone 

of Argyle pink diamonds 

Bulgari 

EMERALD AND DIAMOND – Vanessa 

Hudgens, Oscars 2022 

Bulgari 

SAPPHIRE – Cynthia Erivo, Golden Globes 2020 

5 Bulgari’s eye-popping sapphire 

and diamond wreath necklace. 

Taking centre stage is a 40-carat 

cabochon sapphire, while the 

necklace is lined with more than 

56 carats worth of diamonds and 

smaller sapphires. 

Lorraine Schwartz 

CHAMPAGNE DIAMONDS – Catherine Zita 

Jones, Oscars 2013 

Louis Vitton 

OPAL – Hoyeon Jung, Met Gala 2022 

E pink@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199

BUSINESS 

Strategy 

Avoid the trap of retail clichés 

Clichés are all too common in the world of business. Some are timeless pieces of wisdom, however, others have 

outlived their value. SUSAN MARTIN takes a look at some common phrases thrown around in the world of retail. 

Clichés are commonplace across the 

retail industry and in some instances, 

they’ve become almost hard-coded into 

our thinking. 

In the same way that there are habits that 

serve us well, and others that undo us, I 

think some of these clichés may be doing 

more harm than good. 

Before we begin any specific analysis, allow 

me to set the scene with a quick look at the 

actual meaning of a cliché. 

One definition is, “a trite, stereotyped 

expression; a sentence or phrase, usually 

expressing a popular or common thought 

or idea, that has lost originality, ingenuity, 

and impact by long overuse.” 

With this in mind, let’s put a few of our old 

favourites under the microscope and see 

if they can be considered tried and true 

thinking and are worthy of keeping around, 

or whether they’re archaic and it’s time to 

move on. 

In some cases, it may not be time to move 

on all together, but instead to reinvent! 

Garbage in, garbage out 

This expression has its origins in 

computer science and was first used in 

the 1950s and 1960s. 

The saying, ‘garbage in, garbage out’ holds 

true for more than just IT environments 

and is as simple as it sounds. If you use 

low-quality or inaccurate information or 

inputs, such as poorly managed data, you 

will get low-quality or inaccurate outputs. 

This impacts the value of analysis and 

forecasting. 

With a high dependency on data, retail 

merchandise planners were early adopters 

of the ‘garbage in, garbage out’ principle. 

The implications of poor data are very well 

known in that field. 

The positive news is that with data and 

tech becoming increasingly mainstream, 

there has been a greater focus on the 

importance of good data. Even the cool kids 

in marketing are talking data these days. 

A rising tide lifts all boats, and this is one 

piece of wisdom we should keep for now. 

Stack it high, watch it fly 

This is one phrase I’ve wanted to change for 

some time. A more accurate saying might 

be ‘stack it high, kiss profit goodbye!’ 

This particular cliché bothers me a 

lot. I know there are many successful 

businesses based on this concept. We 

often hear this phrase used in relation to a 

‘category killer’ strategy, where a retailer 

eliminates competition and achieves 

market dominance through capacity, 

reach and product selection. 

The financial capabilities and size of a 

large retail chain, for example, gives them 

an edge over small businesses because 

they purchase from manufacturers and 

suppliers in bulk. Buying in bulk offers 

advantages when it comes to negotiating 

prices, dating, and shipping costs. 

That’s all well and good when it is the 

Making 

decisions is 

easier when 

you understand 

that you’re not 

looking for the 

right answer, 

if there even is 

one, but the best 

possible answer 

given the 

information you 

have, under the 

circumstances. 

actual business strategy. That is, when 

‘stack it high, watch it fly’ is the operating 

model; marketing and ultimately 

profitability fold into it. 

Sadly, this method is often not based on 

strategic pricing or volume objectives. 

Simply having lots of stock does not mean 

you will sell it. 

Profit erosion is the inevitable outcome 

of this misstep, giving away early margin 

gains to clean up the long tail and free up 

cash for the next stock investment. 

The time has come to release this old 

chestnut back into the wild. 

Spray and pray 

This cliché reflects a lack of strategy, 

process, and sometimes discipline. 

Whatever the underlying reason – lack of 

experience, confidence, or leadership and 

resulting direction - hedging your bets in 

the retail game is just not good enough. 

The response to hearing this saying is to 

reply: ‘hope is not a strategy.’ 

It is critical to know your market, 

customers, competitors, and product, 

and to become laser-focused on your 

point of difference. 

Formulate this into a strategy, translate 

it into a merchandise financial plan, apply 

assortment principles around width and 

depth, and target appropriately. 

This will drive optimal stock investment 

decisions and profitability. Competitive 


Business Strategy 

forces in a global economy spell the end of 

vague buying and ranging. 

You must stand for something, or you will 

become a pushover in the retail market. 

We can move on from this cliché too; delete 

it from your thoughts! 

Retail is detail 

I support this expression, however, 

caution is needed. 

At one end of the scale, it’s often the 

small things that make all the difference, 

particularly in execution at the customerfacing 

side of the business. 

The other extreme is our counter cliché, 

‘analysis paralysis’. 

This is a trap people who value planning 

are often accused of falling into. It’s 

increasingly difficult to avoid with more 

data becoming accessible every day. 

To my mind, the key here is to select the 

appropriate level of detail for the task, 

and the specific outcome required. 

Retailers should ask themselves questions 

such as, what decisions need to be made? 

What are we solving for? 

Work back from that starting point to 

gauge the right level of detail and how 

much analysis is enough. 

Making decisions is easier when you 

understand that you’re not looking for the 

right answer, if there even is one, but the 

best possible answer given the information 

you have, under the circumstances. 

Lock this one in, but always carefully 

consider ‘retail is detail’. 

Right product, right place, right time 

This old saying is often associated with 

merchandise planning specifically. 

I’m a fan of achieving these ‘right’ results 

using the right stock, in the right place, at 

the right time. 

I just think there is work to do in how these 

results are achieved. 

If retailers keep throwing around this 

expression without giving attention to 

whether we are doing the ‘right thing’ to 

get the ‘right result’, we run the risk of 

potentially spinning our wheels aimlessly 

and losing traction. 

At all costs, we need to avoid speeding off 

in the wrong direction. 

The customer is king 

Cliché meets buzzword! 

Just about any current buzzword would 

fit right in here: customer experience, 

personalisation, free returns, flexible 

delivery windows, same-day delivery, 

buy now and pay later. 

They’re all concepts driven by the desires 

of customers; however, retailers must 

accept that sometimes a business cannot 

meet every need. 

The customer is still the raison d’etre 

of retail, and technology is rapidly 

enabling new ways to show them just 

how much we care. Increasingly, the trick 

for retailers, from my perspective, is to 

find the balance that’s right for them with 

longevity in mind. 

What is that unique blend of meeting the 

increasing expectations of customers, 

keeping up with the industrial changes of a 

competitive market, and ensuring that they 

remain profitable in the process? 

All new initiatives add up and weigh 

heavily on the cost of doing business. 

The full impact of these additional costs 

is not always fully understood, and the 

true cost and benefit in the long term is 

sometimes hidden. 

Once again, being clear on what the 

business stands for will help determine 

which shiny new objects are the best fit. 

We’re keeping this cliché for now. 

HOPE IS NOT 

A STRATEGY 

Learn 

Understand 

your market, 

customers, and 

competition 

Establish 

Focus on 

your point of 

difference 

Break it down 

Develop an 

overall strategy 

and merchandise 

financial plan 

Refine 

Apply assortment 

principles 

Target 

Approach the 

appropriate 

customers 

It’s not rocket science 

Neither retail nor merchandise planning is 

rocket science. Most things in life aren’t. 

Just because a process is simple and/or 

straightforward, doesn’t mean we should 

assume we are getting it right or doing it 

well. Why? Because ‘knowing’ and ‘doing’ 

are not the same thing. 

There is a risk of oversimplifying things, 

especially when it comes to concepts 

like merchandise planning. It’s common, 

especially when under the pressure of 

a deadline or an environment where a 

project is under-resourced, to fall back on 

default ways of working or thinking. 

Accessing those prized planning benefits 

doesn’t come down to rocket science, 

but it does require acknowledging and 

facilitating planning within the business. 

We run the risk of oversimplifying 

important tasks when we overuse this kind 

of cliché and it’s best we move away from 

this kind of thought. 

Some things never change 

Retail is always changing, but has it ever 

really changed that significantly? The 

essence is the same; some aspects have 

evolved, as is the natural course of things. 

Now is a great time to take our retail 

thinking off auto-pilot and inspect our 

habits and default behavior patterns. 

What wisdom of the past do we continue 

to hold as sacred, and what ideas is it 

time to release? Reframing, reinventing, 

and replacing old ideas with fresh 

concepts is a sure-fire way to stay ahead 

in the retail world. 

SUSAN MARTIN is founder of Smart In 

Planning. She has 25 years’ experience 

developing stock planning systems for 

retailers in South Africa and Australia. 

Visit: smartinplanning.com 


BUSINESS 

Selling 

How to tell a story in 10 words or less 

Communicating efficiently and effectively is one of the biggest challenges in marketing. 

BRIDGET BROWN shares the key to getting your message across. 

If you don’t have a lot of space to tell a 

story, that doesn’t mean you can’t sell 

with a story, it just means you can’t waste 

a word. 

The most important principle when 

it comes to communicating with little 

space is to talk about your audience, not 

about yourself. 

Whether it’s a banner ad or a promotion 

posted on a bus bench, there are times that 

businesses need to tell a story in as few 

words as possible. 

Unfortunately, most don’t follow the ‘talk 

about the audience, not yourself’ rule, so 

their words are wasted. 

Focus on your audience 

Consider the following example. I once saw 

an advertisement for a painting service, 

which said “experts in residential and 

interior/exterior painting.” 

Can you think of a problem with this 

ad? It’s focused on the business, not the 

customer. What’s worse, it doesn’t say 

much at all. 

I tend to assume that someone who 

paints for a living is a painting expert. It’s 

wasted space informing me that you’re 

an ‘expert’ in your trade. They could 

turn the same point into a small story. 

For example: ‘a top-to-bottom home 

makeover with no stress’. 

That reminds the audience that a simple 

coat of paint can feel like a complete 

home makeover, and tells the homeowner 

they won’t have to fret. It sends the same 

‘we are experts’ message in a way that 

remains focused on the audience. 

Tell a story 

When we start with the audience we make 

the advertisement a story … for them! 

In this example, the homeowner is the 

protagonist of the story. They want 

an updated home and they may have 

experienced home renovations and 

repairs in the past that were stressful. 

The business can help the protagonist 

There are times that businesses need to tell a story in as few words as 

possible. 

overcome their problem and secure a 

great result. 

Recently, I was trying to tell a story in as 

few words as possible when I decided 

I wanted to give out purple pens as 

promotional items. I’d been thinking about 

purple pens to match my business logo. 

I didn’t want to just place my logo on the 

pens, because a logo alone doesn’t tell 

anyone to do anything. I wanted something 

that would prompt my target audience to 

act when they saw it. 

I needed a story that could fit in a space 

just two inches wide. 

Marketing 

Looking for ideas, I turned to one of my 

favourite books, Neuromarketing by 

Patrick Renvoise and Christopher Morin. 

The authors go into detail about how 

the brain absorbs messages, and how 

businesses can use this knowledge to 

influence customers. 

In 2005, scientists made a breakthrough 

in neuroscience when they learned more 

about the limbic system. Sometimes 

casually called our ‘reptile brain’, the 

limbic system is the least-evolved part of 

our brain. 

Researchers discovered that the limbic 

system has a large influence on our 

decision-making, including our purchasing 

decisions. This part of the brain isn’t 

The most 

important 

principle when 

it comes to 

communicating 

with little space 

is to talk about 

your audience, 

not about 

yourself. 

known to stop and consider options 

carefully, it tends to race to conclusions 

based on instinct. 

Don’t reason with a toddler 

I tend to think of this part of the brain like a 

toddler, specifically my son Malcolm. He’s 

self-centred, he can’t regulate emotions 

and most importantly, he doesn’t respond 

to rational arguments. 

Cute? Yes. Reasonable? Absolutely not! 

We can bribe the more primitive instincts 

of our audience by grabbing their attention 

with something desirable, like we would 

with a toddler. 

The best advertisements make the 

audience believe that the offer was 

their idea. This comes down to showing 

our audience that we understand their 

perspective. 

Get started 

I recently spotted an advertisement for 

a world media festival. The focus of the 

ad was on someone who worked at the 

festival, meeting lots of important people 

and, as a result, realised new career goals. 

I thought that was brilliant. The protagonist 

of the story is always the customer, and 

if we can describe a problem they have – 

such as career fulfillment – and indicate 

that our business or service offers a 

solution, that’s all that’s required. 

Starting your message with a focus on 

your customer and their needs instead of 

your business, and what you’re selling, is a 

reliable way to appeal to that self-centred 

limbic system. 

As for my pens, I decided they’re going to 

say “a never-ending stream of buyers?" 

That's a true story. 

BRIDGET BROWN is founder of 

Create That Copy & Marketing, a 

Canadian marketing firm focused on 

generating leads and increasing sales 

and revenue for small businesses. Visit: 

createthatcopy.com 


BUSINESS 

Management 

The art of counterintuitive thinking 

By forcing ourselves to think outside the box and by forgetting preconceived notions we can find solutions to problems 

otherwise hidden from sight. DALE FURTWENGLER explains that abandoning intuition is sometimes the wisest move. 

If you’d like to be more influential you must 

train your mind to think counterintuitively 

and to see the things that others don’t see. 

We enjoy the company of those who are 

likeminded. Why wouldn’t we? They affirm 

our beliefs. But what if they’re as wrong 

as we are? What if they’re overlooking the 

same things we are? 

How does their affirmation help us 

achieve what we desire? The simple 

answer is that it doesn’t. 

What we need to learn, grow and progress 

are people who see things we don’t see, 

people who offer a different perspective. 

Learning to influence 

The key to becoming a strong influencer is 

to see things others don’t see and in order 

to do that we need to train our minds to 

think counterintuitively. 

Our natural tendency is to trust our 

intuition; to rely on what seems logical 

to us. Yet time and time again we 

find that the best solutions, the most 

effective path to what we desire, is not 

what we expected intuitively. 

One example of this principle is the story 

of the botanist working with a purple and 

white African violet. The botanist wanted to 

intensify the purple colour, so he made the 

white gene more recessive. The result was 

that the plant compensated for the loss 

by enhancing the white. To intensify the 

purple, the botanist needed to diminish 

the purple gene. 

I’m certain that you’ll be able recall 

similar circumstances, where the result 

you got was precisely the opposite of what 

you expected. That’s because the best 

solutions are often counterintuitive. 

From here the question then becomes 

“How do I train my mind to think 

counterintuitively?” 

Fun and games 

Training our minds and learning new skills 

is easier when you make a game of it. The 

next time you hear or read something, stop 

To learn, grow and progress we need people who see things we don’t see. 

and ask yourself some simple questions. 

Is there a situation where this information 

would not hold true? Under what 

circumstances might that not work? Is 

there a simpler way to accomplish the 

same result? Can I blend two or more 

seemingly disparate interests into a 

cohesive solution? 

The fun is found in demonstrating to 

yourself just how creative your mind is 

when responding to these questions. One 

of my college professors opened my eyes 

to this approach with a simple exercise. 

He began by assigning his class the task 

of writing a paper on any controversial 

topic we chose. The following week, he 

instructed us to take the opposite position. 

This simple assignment opened my eyes 

to just how much validity can exist on both 

sides of an argument. It also helped me 

see the alternatives that could form the 

foundation for mutual agreement. 

Playing these types of games frequently 

ends with you developing the ability to see 

things others aren’t seeing. As you share 

your thoughts with them, preferably in the 

form of questions, they will appreciate the 

wisdom of your insights and regularly seek 

your counsel. 

As your reputation grows, they’ll refer 

others to you as well. 

Questions, not statements 

Once you’ve identified alternative options, 

don’t make the mistake of telling the 

person that there is a better way. Instead, 

One of the 

things you’ll 

discover as you 

play the game of 

counterintuitive 

thinking is 

that your 

subconscious 

mind begins 

to look for 

alternative 

perspectives 

to what’s being 

said or written. 

lead them to the same conclusion you’ve 

reached with guiding questions. 

How would that work in this situation? 

Are there circumstances in which that 

wouldn’t hold true? Is there a simpler way 

to accomplish this result? What would 

happen if we did X instead of Y? Is there a 

way in which we can accomplish more than 

one goal at once? 

Using questions allow them to discover 

answers on their own and validates 

those answers with their own personal 

experience. 

The power of habit 

Influence is a wonderful tool. It affords you 

the ability to enrich the lives of others as 

well as your own. 

One of the things that you’ll discover as you 

play the game of counterintuitive thinking 

is that your subconscious mind begins to 

look for alternative perspectives to what’s 

being said or written. 

You no longer have to ask the questions. 

Your subconscious mind has formed 

the habit of questioning everything and 

understanding that much of what we 

intuitively expect is seldom what really 

happens. 

Remember, it all comes back to asking 

fundamental questions. 

Is there a situation where this information 

would not hold true? Under what 

circumstances might that not work? Is 

there a simpler way to accomplish the 

same result? Can I blend two or more 

seemingly disparate interests into a 

cohesive solution? 

We ask the right questions which allows 

our audience to discover the right answer 

on their own accord. 

DALE FURTWENGLER is the founder 

of Furtwengler & Associates. Hs is a 

speaker, author and business consultant. 

Visit: pricingforprofitbook.com 


BUSINESS 

Marketing & PR 

Quality customer service always beats out pricing 

Retailers often work hard chasing a balance between quality customer service and appealing product pricing. 

SHEP HYKEN explains why one is so much more important than the other. 

“Is customer service more important 

than product price?” 

That’s the question we recently asked more 

than 1,000 people as a part of our customer 

service research. 58 per cent said “yes”. 

Just to be sure, we asked a similar 

question later in the survey. “Would you 

pay more if you knew you would receive 

great customer service? Again, 58 per 

cent of responses were “yes”. 

The messaging was clear. “Please take 

care of me, and I’ll even pay a little more.” 

When more than half of your customers 

are saying that you must listen. 

Customer trust 

The online marketplace Amazon is an 

excellent example of this concept in action. 

People trust Amazon, not just for its 

reliability, which is an important part of 

the customer experience, but also for the 

customer service. 

Customers like the instant email 

confirmations, the ability to track a 

package, the notification you receive when 

the package is delivered, and the comfort 

of knowing that if the item is damaged or 

lost Amazon will take care of them. 

Amazon generates trust with the 

quality of its customer service and as a 

consequence, price becomes less of a 

concern to the average customer. 

You may be reading this and thinking, 

“Isn’t Amazon always the lowest price?” 

Surprisingly, that’s no longer the case. 

At one time, Amazon was typically the 

lowest priced online retailer, but that’s 

no longer the standard. 

Today, products on Amazon are 

competitively priced, which means 

customers may find the same merchandise 

on another website for a little less. 

Even so, customers often return to 

Amazon because they know what to expect. 

The experience is consistent and 

predictable, and they know that if they 

Seems simple, right? A typical customer wants someone to be nice to 

them, with a willingness to take care of them. 

need customer service for a problem, 

they’ll not only receive it, they’ll also be 

happy with the result. 

Generational change 

Younger customers are less pricesensitive 

than their older counterparts. 

Interestingly, 62 per cent of Millennial 

customers (1981-1996) and 60 per cent of 

Gen Z customers (1997-2012) are willing 

to pay more for superior customer service 

compared with 46 per cent of Baby Boomer 

aged customers (1946-1964). 

Offering the lowest prices makes sense 

for some businesses, but you can’t 

ignore the findings. 

Quality customer service experience 

creates price tolerance. How much 

tolerance will depend on the industry? 

That’s up to you to determine. 

You’ll have to experiment to determine 

the tolerance levels. Just consider 

the findings. When more than half of 

customers say they prefer quality service 

to favourable pricing, you can’t pass up 

the opportunity. 

The superior strategy 

As a part of the same customer service 

research, we also posed questions on 

the kind of service that would most likely 

prompt them to return to a business. 

The top answers: helpful and friendly. 

Quality 

customer 

service 

experience 

creates price 

tolerance. How 

much tolerance 

depends on 

the market or 

industry. 

Seems simple, right? All a typical 

customer wants is for someone to be 

nice to them, with a willingness to take 

care of them. 

How hard can that be? It seems like it’s 

just common sense, right? Yet we’ve all 

heard the customer service horror stories 

that are the exact opposite of people being 

helpful and friendly. 

Consider this from another angle. 

We asked another question within the 

research, this time focused on complaints. 

“When you have a problem or issue with a 

business or brand, which solutions do you 

prefer to help you solve your problem?” 

“Kind and helpful employees” was the 

response received from 89 per cent of 

those surveyed. 

Whether it’s a general interaction with a 

member of staff, or a problem or complaint 

you want resolved, those two words, 'kind' 

and 'helpful', are right at the top of the list 

of reasons why customers come back. 

Apathy loses money 

So, what makes customers want to stop 

shopping with a specific retailer and switch 

to another business? The opposite of kind 

and helpful, which it turns out is rudeness 

and apathy. 

The data says 75 per cent of customers 

are willing to switch businesses or leave 

a brand after experiencing rudeness and 

apathy from a member of staff. 

When working with our clients on 

their customer service and customer 

experience initiatives we always preach the 

importance of the basics. 

Advanced strategy means nothing if the 

customer ends up interacting with one of 

your employees and experiences anything 

short of a friendly, helpful interaction. 

SHEP HYKEN is a best selling author who 

assists companies to build relationships 

with customers and employees. Learn 

More: hyken.com 


BUSINESS 

Logged On 

Practical ideas for resources for business blogging 

Most business owners understand that blogging has its benefits, but what are the options if you’re uncomfortable with 

your writing skills? HEATHER COOPER shares some practical advice for overcoming this hurdle. 

In the June edition of Jeweller I explained 

the benefits blogging brings to a business. 

Actively blogging is a ‘must’ for modern 

jewellery retailers. The benefits that are 

available are simply too good to pass up. 

Not everyone has confidence in their ability 

to write, however. For those who struggle 

with writing, there are some very good 

resources and ideas available to help you 

get started. With a little help, you can turn 

your blog posts into something in which 

you feel proud and that you deem worthy of 

sharing with others. 

Take advantage of Grammarly 

One of the best blogging resources 

is Grammarly. It’s not just helpful for 

blogging either, it’s an easy-to-use 

program that frequently comes in handy 

for many other daily computer tasks. 

It is a free AI-powered writing assistant 

that helps you create clear, errorfree 

writing. Not only does it correct 

grammar and spelling mistakes, but 

it also guides you with style and tone 

suggestions as well. 

Additionally, Grammarly’s blog is a 

fantastic resource for any question you 

might have about improving your writing. 

Read it out 

This tip isn’t a specific blogging resource 

you can use, it’s a great tip for improving 

all kinds of writing. I find it to be one of 

the most useful things to do when writing, 

especially when editing prior to publication. 

Reading your writing aloud is the easiest 

way to find word repetition, omitted 

words, and sentences with which readers 

may struggle, and therefore need to be 

reworked. While you may feel silly doing it, 

it is the best way to improve your writing. 

It puts the writer into the reader’s position, 

and as an added benefit, it’s free! 

Blog ideas generator 

For some people, creating or developing 

a topic on which to write is often just as 

difficult as completing the writing. 

For those who struggle with writing, there are some very good resources 

available to help you. 

Luckily, there are some blogging 

resources to help with that. One of these 

is the HubSpot Blog Ideas Generator. With 

this free tool, you can enter nouns related 

to your business and industry and receive 

several blogging ideas. 

It’s a fantastic way to reduce some of the 

stress of frequent online content creation , 

especially if you already lack confidence in 

your writing. 

Refer to a style guide 

Finding the correct rules for writing your 

business blog posts can also be difficult 

at times. 

There are conflicting recommendations 

for spelling, grammar, word usage and 

punctuation depending on which style 

guide you choose to use for your blog. 

A style guide is a collection of writing 

conventions (or rules) for a particular 

industry, brand or project. While there 

are many style guides out there, your 

business may choose to create a 

personalised house style. 

If you’d rather defer to the experts on 

the topic of language, consider using the 

Australian Style Guide or the Australian 

Government Style Manual. There’s also a 

style guide available at Editor Australia. 

Most style guides are published and 

updated every few years. Since these 

guides tend to be quite hefty, I do suggest 

Reading your 

writing out loud 

is the easiest 

way to find 

word repetition, 

omitted words, 

and sentences 

readers may 

struggle with, 

and thus need 

to be reworked. 

While you may 

feel silly while 

you’re doing 

it, it really is 

the best way to 

work on your 

writing. 

subscribing to your particular style guide 

online. 

While there is a fee associated with this, 

they usually have the most up-to-date 

information and often include an “ask the 

editor” section where you can submit a 

question or read through questions and 

answers that others have submitted. 

Stock image plans 

This resource is not specifically for writing, 

but it is something that may help you make 

your business blog more successful. 

Blog posts with images perform much 

better than those without. Finding visual 

content that you are legally allowed to 

post with your writing can be difficult 

sometimes. 

Websites such as Shutterstock provide 

stock photo options that include royaltyfree 

images, photos, and videos. 

There is a fee associated with 123rf, 

however there are several plans depending 

on how often you will make use of the 

service. As businesses that blog regularly 

perform the best, a subscription plan to a 

stock image website will provide you with 

a wide supply of images to help your blog 

succeed. You can also explore plans on 

iStock and Getty Images. 

Don’t miss out 

Anyone can be a writer with the right 

ideas and resources. 

While stepping out of your comfort 

zone can be difficult and painful at first, 

especially if writing isn’t something you 

enjoy, taking the step to begin blogging for 

your business can help your company drive 

traffic to your website, convert that traffic 

into leads and establish yourself as an 

authority within the industry. 

HEATHER COOPER is a writer for Three 

Girls Media, offering guidance on website 

design and build, public relations, and 

content marketing strategy. Learn more: 

threegirlsmedia.com 


My Bench 

Harry Bassil 

Bassil Creations. Sydney NSW 

Age 37 • Years in Trade 17 • Training Enmore Design Centre • First job Bassil Creations, working for my father Sergio Bassil • Other Qualifications Certificate 4 

in Business Management and Certificate 3 in Jewellery Design and Manufacturing. 

SIGNATURE PIECE 

EMERALD CUT TRILOGY 

The emerald cut trilogy diamond ring is one of the most 

exquisite engagement rings we have created. It is set with 

three emerald cut diamonds, all in D colour VS1 clarity. 

The centre diamond is three carats and each side diamond 

is 1.5-carat, totalling six carats of diamonds in total. 

The ring is made in a two-tone, the diamonds are set in 

platinum and the band is in 18-carat yellow gold. 

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE My favourite must be a 

diamond. Nothing shines as bright as a diamond. 

Each facet acts as a mirror and bounces the rays 

of light back to the viewer creating that sparkle. 

They are the perfect gemstone to work with. 

4FAVOURITE METAL Platinum. I love the feeling 

of working with platinum, and the bright colour of 

the metal when it is polished. 

4FAVOURITE TOOL Handpiece. It is the tool that I 

use most, especially when setting diamonds. 

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Gravermax. I have 

just started using this tool, it is so useful especially 

when setting diamonds and engraving. 

4BEST PART OF THE JOB Bringing a client’s 

dream jewellery piece to life. 

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Eyes getting strained 

when spending long hours on the bench. 

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER In the jewellery 

trade there is something to learn every day, even 

when you have been working in the trade for a very 

long time. 

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER When starting out 

make sure you have a good role model to teach 

you the skills in the trade. From there try to spend 

as much time as possible practicing and perfecting 

each skill in creating various types of jewellery. 

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH 

Sitting down for a long number of hours without 

much movement, so it’s crucial to do some daily 

exercise after work. 

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE It’s my passion. 

When growing up I always saw my father creating 

jewellery and this always intrigued me. I used to sit 

on his bench and play around with the tools. From 

the first time I started working with my father, I 

knew this was my passion. I love the concept of 

bringing a client’s jewellery piece to reality. 


OPINION 

Soapbox 

Succession: The best laid plans of 

mice and men often go awry 

The jewellery industry is one of the few spheres where a connection between family and business is 

common. GREVILLE INGHAM shares some lessons on business succession, learned the hard way. 

In every way you can name, it’s been 

a momentous couple of years for our 

business. For a start, I didn’t expect to 

be writing an article about business 

succession planning, however; we have 

learned a great deal over the past 12 

months! 

Most people would know that, after nearly 

50 years of commitment to the Peter W 

Beck Company, our founder, Peter, passed 

away in December of 2021, leaving behind a 

legendary legacy in the Australian jewellery 

industry. 

He was 'old school'. The company was 

named the Peter W Beck Company, because 

that was the style then. He was the single 

point of ‘truth’ within the business. 

That kind of central strong character can 

be an enormous driving force in creating a 

business; however, when a sudden change 

in leadership is forced on a business, it can 

be a recipe for disaster. 

Now, in sharing our unfortunate 

experiences, I don’t mean to suggest that we 

had no succession plans in place, we did. 

I had returned to the business in November 

of 2020 as part of a plan to learn different 

aspects of the business over a few years, 

developing into a ‘general manager’ style 

role with help from my two sisters, Jenni and 

Carol, who are already very knowledgeable 

in their areas of the trade. 

From a strategic sense, the idea was to form 

a board-style advisory committee that would 

inform management decision making, with 

the three shareholders – myself and my 

two sisters being involved on shareholder 

matters – while Peter would step back into 

a kind of chairman position. Unfortunately, 

just one year into that plan, Peter fell ill and 

passed away. 

Like many family companies, which are still 

very prevalent in the jewellery industry today, 

our family was faced with not only dealing 

with all the emotion that comes with a 

deeply personal loss, but also with securing 

the future of the business. 

I was only beginning to become used to 

playing my role within the national sales 

team, so there were many parts of our 

succession plan, which hadn’t begun, let 

alone been completed. 

Crucial early moves 

We made two important early plays. 

The first and immediate thing needed was 

get our head around the financial aspects 

therefore we introduced an external 

accountant. 

The most important thing was making sure 

I could understand all financial matters 

The company has many divisions: refining, 

casting, CAD/CAM, the custom projects, 

and of course, all the wedding rings and 

jewellery. 

We had so many questions, most of which 

were simple. But everyone in a leadership 

role needs to be able to answer them. 

Solvency? Is the business able to meet longterm 

debts and financial obligations? Does 

the business have liquidity, and can we pay 

the bills? I know it’s basic but it’s the only 

thing that really matters! 

Making our intentions clear 

Once we believed the company’s finances 

were strong, we then needed to liaise with 

our major stakeholders and let them know 

that we are here to stay. 

From the banks, the retailers, the suppliers, 

our customers, our staff, everyone – we 

needed them all to know that the business 

will continue. 

That’s another important lesson we’ve 

learned too – that it’s crucial for the person 

expected to take over the leadership of a 

company to know everyone who has a role 

to play. Peter had plans for exactly that, to 

introduce me to everyone, however because 

of the change in timeline those plans were 

cut short. 

And additionally, who within your 

organisation is going to provide objective and 

effective leadership at all levels in support 

Don’t forget 

your roots. 

Don’t forget 

that is what 

the business 

is founded 

on. Identify 

those legacy 

foundational 

attributes and 

protect them! 

of your vision and plan. Because without 

access to a plan – such as the one in Peter’s 

head - you are in trouble. 

You need to quickly understand your 

opportunities, where you will focus to 

target growth and how you can employ your 

resources to get there. And who better to 

tell you than those who are at the coal face, 

your staff. You have to communicate, listen 

and learn. 

A plan for the future 

It’s been a steep learning curve, but it’s given 

us some great plans for the future. The 

success of our transition has come down to 

the strength of communication within our 

team and the loyalty of our customers, for 

which we are extremely grateful. It’s taken 

us six months to find our feet and we have 

had to back ourselves every step fo the way. 

Having a plan, and making sure everyone 

is aware of it, is pivotal. Beyond that, you 

need to have rules of governance in place, 

which everyone within your organisation 

understands. 

It’s a lot of work putting together a 

succession plan, and it requires input from 

the whole team. Defining who is responsible 

for what, and having an easily accessible 

code for operation, makes addressing just 

about every issue so much easier. 

Don’t forget your roots. Don’t forget that is 

what the business is founded on. Identify 

those legacy foundational attributes and 

protect them! 

I leave you with one last piece of advice: 

Fifty years of business is a long time in 

anyone’s mind. Get a process for password 

management, not just for computers and 

smartphones, but 'old school' safes too. 

Peter had a few! 

Name: Greville Ingham 

Business: BECKS 

Position: Managing director 

Location: Adelaide, SA 


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