Cattleya guttata var. albina 'Interlagos' x 'Vitor Couto'

Cattleya guttata var. albina 'Interlagos' x 'Vitor Couto' 

The Cattleya guttata var. albina 'Interlagos' has shorter pseudobulbs if compared to a typical C. guttata. It also blooms aprox. three months after the regular blooming season so we believe it's originated from from the epiphyte populations and not from plants thriving on the costal areas.

The C. guttata albina 'Vitor Couto' is similar regarding the blooming season, but with the larger sized pseudobulbs.

Cattleya guttata orchid is a medium sized, cool to warm growing epiphyte or lithophyte from Sao Paulo to Espirito Santo States, near the coast or along rivers in the interior (especially in Espirito Santo State). The species is commonly found growing in the swampy forests behind sand dunes near coastal beaches with cylindrical, elongate pseudobulbs carrying 2 apical, spreading, elliptic-oblong, very coriaceous leaves and the inflorescence arises on a fully matured pseudobulb in the fall and winter on a terminal, to 1 1/2' (45 cm) long, few to several flowered inflorescence subtended by a broad dried sheath and giving rise to heavy textured, waxy, fragrant flowers.

1. Temperature:
Cattleya guttata orchid are preferred at night temperatures of 55-60 ° F or 22.8 ° C and 70-85 ° F or 21.1-29.4 ° C for daytime. Temperature between day and night should be between 15-20 ° F or 8-11 ° C for new bloom.

2. Humidity:
Cattleya guttata orchid need 35-60% humidity during the day and 60-80% at night. With high humidity, leaves and roots absorb water in the air, which helps the orchid grow and give flowers more durable, while also helping the flowers less bud drop in the hot and dry season.

3. Light:
The Cattleya guttata orchid preferred 30-50% natural light or about 2000-4000 foot candles. This species needs light but not direct. A plastic sheeting is very good for growing. If the Cattleya guttata orchid is grown on a rooftop, the best light coverage is 60% or 40% light.

Too much light will cause the leaves to burn yellow and to kill the seedlings, while the lack of light will slow down the plant. Dark green leaves are lacking in light and that is why plants are difficult to produce flower. If the leaves are medium green or yellowish green, the Cattleya guttata orchids are easier to flower and the flowers will be darker.

4. Water:
When planted, we should irrigate and let it dry and then re-irrigate. Water approximately once a week and reduce watering during the winter. If you plant in plastic pots, usually about a week to dry. If you irrigate continuity, the roots will rot and the plant will die. If the leaves and bulbs are thick, there is enough water, if it is wrinkled is the lack of water.

5. Fertilizer:
Cattleya guttata orchid need more light so they require more fertilizer than Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis. It is recommended to use fertilizer 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 to irrigate all year round, but you can use 10-30-30 in the flowering season. When fertilizing, we should mix ¼ or ½ teaspoon into 1 gallon (1 gallon equals 3.78541 liters) of water to irrigate each week. When the tip of the leaf is burned black, that is too much fertilizer. It should be only watered for 2 weeks then apply fertilizer again.

6. Repot:
We should replace pots in the summer as the flowers and roots begin to grow. Cattleya guttata is preferred to grow in bark or moss. Usually planted with bark mixed with 10% coconut chip, husk to keep moisture and 10% perlite or coal for ventilation. We should replace pots once a year because the bark will cause root rot. Before replacing the pot, we need to soak the bark and coconut chip for 2 days to remove resin in the bark. Then soak with fertilizer, nacosan or physan 20 for disinfection and B1 to help root faster recovery.

This is a near blooming size in a 5” clay pot newly repotted about 2 to 3 years to bloom Grown from Seed Limited!