My phalaenopsis has few blooms that open but not all the way. And the blooms havent lasted long. The leaves and roots look healthy. There are new leave and new roots appearing. Should I put the plant at another window? I am writing from Germany.

Ginger, Couple of things. #1, It appears the plant might like to have a bit more light. Be careful adding light, so as not to burn the leaves. #2. The blooms not opening fully, and not lasting is probably a humidity issue. Its summer in Germany, if you have a lightly shaded area outside, you might try putting it out there. Be careful with the sunlight, so as not to burn the leaves.

Here is a purely aesthetic note for you. In the first photo you have four leaves that are growing opposite of each other. Two in one direction, then two in the opposite direction. Then there are two leaves growing opposite of each other and approximately 90 degrees from the other four. Then there is this nice little new leaf emerging that looks like its not sure which direction to grow in.

The bloom spikes in the next photo look twisted, and the two blooms look like they are facing different directions.

The most common reason for this is that the plant did not grow with a constant orientation to the sun. It really does not matter if the leaves point to the rising or setting sun, or are perpendicular to the sun. but if you grow the plant for a while one way, then rotate it, the leaves will grow out in a different direction. The bloom spike will also grow out in relation to the suns path across the sky, and all the blooms will face in the same direction. If you let a spike start blooming, and then rotate the pot, the remaining blooms will face a different direction, This is all purely cosmetic unless you are sowing the plant, but your photos do show this effect, and I thought I would mention it.

Bill

Please tell us where you live and where you grow this plant. I totally agree with Bill that you are moving the plant around too much. Depending where you live, put the plant in a nice bright spot and let it grow.

Your plant looks very healthy, I would cut off the flowering spikes and let it make new spikes in the fall. Its up to you, but that's my recommendation.

Jane

Thanks Bill for the good advice.

Jane, I am living in Germany. This plant was given to me few months ago with 1 spike. Unfortunately, it is placed at my small south window sill. You are right, I have been moving the plant too much. I rotate the plant every few days in order that the leaves get their lights equally but have forgotten about the blooming.

On the other hand, I have another plant (the photo is taken with flash, making the window looks bright but the rooms is actually shadowy) placed at the same south window sill, the plant is contented and adaptable to the room temp. The blooming is already 1 month old.

Why do some orchids flowering lasts for weeks and some withered in 1 week? Has it to do with the feeding since the time of seedling?

Ginger, Ans. to last question......That's just the way God made em. In the wild, some species blooms last months, others just days. That being said, in a home environment dry air (lack of humidity) is usually the culprit. The normal recommendation is if you live in a place where you cannot practically take them outside in summer, and are having difficulty with humidity, the bathroom, and kitchen are good places to grow orchids if you have sufficient light in those rooms.

The photo above is interesting. The plant is obviously basically a yellow Phal. (long line hybrid, but mostly a yellow) Yellow blooms are generally tougher (heavier textured) than whites and pink/lavenders. You will generally have less problem with yellow blooms in a dryer environment.

Now, I'm hoping you are not growing it all the time in that pretty container.....which probably does not have a single drainage hole in it.....☺

Take the plants out of any containers you have them in, and grow them in pots with lots of drainage/ventilation holes in them. The roots do not and will not grow if exposed to water constantly. The plant needs to be soaked when it becomes almost completely dry, and then wait until it is almost completely dry before soaking again.

The plant in the window looks nice and healthy, but I think it could use just a bit more light......lush green leaves are not what you are looking for. For Phals, a bit more of a yellowish green would indicate better light. the flowers are interesting.....What is the cross?

Assuming you are military.......Thanks for what you are doing. I'm retired Navy, and understand/appreciate the sacrifice.

Bill

Tks Bill for the prompt reply. I am aware that the container isnt the right pot for the plant. But I am careful to drain the plant after each watering before placing them back in the container. At the moment here in Germany, we are having warm temp. for the last 2 wks. The room temp. is at least 28° C. In fact, the orchids are getting watering every 4 days as the barks are dried up.

I bought this yellow Phal. a month ago. It's called 'emperor of china'- it's a cross from Taiwan.

You are right that this plant, it's petals are thick and firm, and have been steady where it is placed, whereas I have another Phal. it's yellow blooming didnt last long, the buds and flowers

withered easily. It is placed at the same south window sill. The leaves are healthy, there are new leave and new roots except that the flowers didnt survive. The space at my south window sill is limited and I can't resist looking at the garden centre and stop buying more orchids. Women's compulsion!

Ginger, just to add to Bills good advice, I would cut off the spike, I think the plant is finished flowering. You really should move the plant to a better pot with drainage. These plants grow naturally on the sides of trees, not in pots. They want lots of air around their roots which is difficult in a pot and even more so in a pot without drainage.

Both your plants look healthy. Especially the first one. These plants tend to flower in the fall when the temps drop. During the summer, they make growth, new leaves, roots.

You are on the right track. My son was Navy for 7 years, my husband Korea and my brothers WW2. I have the greatest respect for your service. Will help in any way possible.

You have two lovely Phals and I am sure they will reward you with new flowers this coming winter.

Jane

Tks Jane for your good advice. I am still a novice to orchids growing. I have 2 orchids not growing well bought since 2 yrs ago. Havent bloomed either. I havent given up, continue to water them regularly and hoping that new roots will emerge.

What a lovely family you have - everyone is serving the states!

I am not in the military and hope that it's o.k. to join in this orchid forum?

Ginger, This is not a military forum. Everyone is welcome. I just thought you sounded like you might be a military spouse of perhaps a soldier stationed in Germany, and threw that last little bit in my last post as a smile creator. I thought about deleting it, but decided it was worth the effort, even if you weren't a dependent. After all, you folks are what we really do/did our service for.

Bill

Agree with Bill, again! Sorry, I misread your post. Doesn't matter where you are or what you do. We are all orchid addicts and like to enable everyone to our habit!!

Draining the pot is not the best. You need more air around the roots. That is the simplest way to work with your plant. If you can't repot, making some holes around the base of the pot would help.

You are doing a good job for a beginner. Fading flowers is totally normal. Just cut the spike and the plant will grow new leaves and roots. Your plants look healthy.

Jane

Thanks Jane and Bill for the positive comments and encouraging advice.

I have now another question. I have discovered this morning that new roots are emerging through the holes of this Phal. pot. In fact this Phal. orchid is my 1st orchid given to me 4 yrs ago. It was repotted from a 11cm. to a 14cm pot since 2yrs ago. And the leaves are growing bigger and new roots too, over the past yrs. She holds the blooming for 2 - 3 months. She is a strong grower and enjoy the east window sill for the past 4 yrs.

As much as I would like to move her to the other south window sill to improve the conditions of the other Phal., I couldnt because her leaves are big and the south window sills are small, and unable to accomodate the plant.

Now I wish to know should I repot because of the roots emerging or it has to be repotted because it needs repotting after 2 yrs?

The fact that roots are growing out the bottom of your pot only means that your plant is in its growing season and those roots found those holes and are growing out of them. Remember, orchids in nature grow on tree trunks/limbs, or rock facings...Their roots are not accustomed to being cooped up inside a pot, and may grow in the pot or out, as they see fit.

The fact that your plant has been in the same pot/potting mix for two years means it is about time you begin to check periodically to make sure the bark is not beginning to break down. Your plant is in a clear pot, so that makes that job much easier.

If the bark in the center of the pot still looks solid, and it will dry at about the same time as the other mix does, I would not repot. If the bark in the center of the pot is dark and mushy, and the roots are beginning to look like they are not healthy, then repot. If you do repot, just pull those few roots through the holes. You can not help but bruise and break a few roots in any repot, so don't worry about it. I posted last night on "Do I Need To Repot".....You might want to read that post on repotting if you are not familiar with the process.

If you choose not to repot now, just keep an eye on the plant in order to catch it early when it does need to be repotted. The earlier you catch them the better. (Don't repot while in bud/bloom).

Bill

Tks Bill for your advice. I just read your post "Do I Need to Repot" with interest. I will read up again when the time comes for repotting.

I wish to know how do I care for a seedling orchid?

I bought a seedling from ebay since 4 weeks ago. It came wrapped in a little moss potted in a little plastic cup of dia. 1". I was recommended to repot in barks in a 3" pot.

I have been giving the feeding just the same way as with the other Phalaenopsis. I hope I am doing the right thing?

Its a nice healthy looking little fellow. Too bad these on line places want to push this tiny stuff onto the inexperienced grower market. They would be so much easier to handle and the success rate would probably be much higher if this little fellow was 6 months older. I know, I know, its called dollars, or what ever other currency they are dealing in, but surely it would increase repeat sales.

OK, Ginger, now that I have my rant off my back.....

The only real problem I see is the bark you used is way too big for this little fellow. They do sell seedling mix for orchids, its much smaller little chips of the same bark. If you can't find the seedling mix, running the mix you have through a blender will reduce its size nicely.

Two reasons for the smaller mix. 1. The tiny little plants need a more constant level of moisture around the roots. The almost dry before watering comes along later when the plant is probably in a 4" pot. The large bark wants to dry out too soon, and is hard to keep it moist all the time.

#2. These tiny little plants need to be held stable so their little roots do not move around in the mix and get bruised and stop growing. These big pieces of bark don't do a very good job of that.

And now that I have said that, I am not going to suggest you repot this little fellow again. If he has been in the new mix for a couple of weeks, hopefully there are new roots started, and repotting is not going to help them a bit. Every repot is a setback for any orchid, and this tiny thing does not need that.

Put this plant on a shelf where you won't have to move it. Maybe put it in a deep saucer with pebbles in the bottom so when you water the plant you don't have to move it to the sink. Water it gently, and if the saucer gets too much water in it, gently set the plant out and dump the water. Keep it uniformly moist.....not wet.....

Also, it does not want as much light as your mature Phals. bright light, but not as strong as the mature plants. Feed it high Nitrogen fert. half recommended strength, about twice a month.

Have fun.

Bill

Tks Bill for your good advice.

Honestly, it was my mistake bidding for this tiny seedling. I was blinded by the sight of the flower, and didnt enquire much about the size and age of the plant before concluding the Auction. I was disappointed when I saw the tinyness of the plant as I had expected a young plant. And I think it will take about 18mths to 2yrs to cultivate this tiny plant.

For the past 4 wks., the plant is placed at the east window where there are lots of sun. Now I see there is a new root. But I am not sure now if I should move it to the south window?

Presently there is already pebbles at the bottom of the bark placed in the see through 3" plastic pot. And if you say that the tiny little plant need a more constant level of moisture around the roots, should I mist the root every few days?

You can mist the whole plant if you like....you can see the water stains on the leaves in your first photos of the plant. The grower was misting them. Mist only on days when the water will dry off the leaves quickly, but you can mist or water the mix - gently. The mix needs to stay uniformly moist...good drainage and good air circulation.

east or south window is fine, just don't give it as much light as your mature Phals.

Your last photo is interesting.....Did they sell you the seedling promising that bloom? Here's why I ask..

The photo shows a bloom and plant heavily influenced by Phalaenopsis violacia indicating a rather short line hybrid. The name tag also looks like it is a hybrid (something X(crossed with) something else) If it is a cross, you may or may not get the bloom pictured, however, if they cloned an unnamed cross, with that bloom, then you will get that exact bloom.

Violacia has a delightful spicy fragrance, and will usually have blooms for most of the year. It usually will only have one, sometimes two blooms on a spike at any given time, but larger plants will have multiple spikes. Just remember, the other parent is going to give its influence to the cross also, so it probably won't act exactly like a violacia

The violacia influence will tend to give a plant that lays flat on the surface of the pot, with large wavy leaves that will hang down over the edge of the pot. It will like warmer temps, and perhaps not quite as much light as the Phals. you are used to dealing with.

It should be a very delightful plant to have in your collection.

Bill

To my knowledge, I dont think any german ebayer selling their orchids will make promises that the seedling/plant will bloom. Perhaps some Malayisan or Thai ebayers.

Like I mentioned earlier that I made the mistake bidding for this seedling without enquiring much.

As you can see from the link - http://www.ebay.de/itm/181774624624?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

the ebayer listed the photo of the flower and another one which I posted yesterday (the tiny seedling in a little plastic cup of 2").

The only description was that "the seedling was potted 5 months ago. The photo shown is an example of Yaphon Sir...."

The name of the plant that was shown - Phalaenopsis Joy Musical Notation Joy x Yaphon Sir Peter #4.

In fact as a novice, I am not familiar with the type of Phal. orchids, esp. if it's a Phal. species or Hybrid or natural species.

Ok, it appears that your little seedling is not a clone. No problem there, it just means that when it blooms, it most probably will not look like the photo you posted. That is just a photo of one of its two parents. That is to me really one of the most fun part about growing orchids. I used to purchase what was back then called community pots...small pots with 10 to 15 tiny little plants growing in them. These plants were like brothers and sisters, you could not know what they were going to look like until they bloomed. Some would look like mama, some more like dad, and then every once in awhile you would get one with grandpa's old hooked nose (if you know what I mean...☺)

I would keep what I thought were the best one or two plants, and give away the remaining.

Clones, on the other hand are all exact genetic copies of the plant that was cloned. The vast majority of Phalaenopsis on the market today are clones. A plant is chosen, and a small amount of tissue is taken (usually the nodes at the joints of a bloom spike), and these are multiplied many hundreds of times, and in the end each of these little pieces of tissue produces a plant that is an exact genetic copy of the original plant. Ain't science great?

You have, probably without realizing it, found one of the most fun ways to learn a great deal about growing orchids. Have fun, and learn all you can.....I, and lots like me think it is great fun, I hope you will too.

Bill

Tks Bill for your prompt reply and the interesting info. on orchids Biology.

From the 2 pics. attached, would they be described as Phal. Hybrid - the yellow is Phal. Bellina, and the other Lilac is Phal. Mok Choi.

I dont own these 2 orchids but 1 day perhaps, when my present orchids (Clones Phal) are growing and grooming well, I will add these Bellina and Mok Choi to my collection.:-P

Ginger, The first photo is Phal. bellina. It is a species, which basically means you could expect to go into the jungle in certain places (Borneo, the Philippines) and find these plants growing there.

The second photo you call Phal. Mok Choi. I cannot find that name listed, but do find Phal Mok Choi Yew listed as a primary hybrid between Phal. gigantea and Phal. violacea. It is not uncommon for names of orchids to get mis spelled, altered, or parts to be dropped. These names are handled by so many people, and reproduced so many times....name tags, and in advertising for instance....that it is fairly common for something like the Yew to get left off. P. Mok Choi Yew is what we call a primary hybrid, meaning that it is a cross between two species. It is a hybrid, but only has two plants in its background.

Either of these two plants would be nice to have in a collection. Bear in mind though that these two plants are, or are so close to being species that they would both probably grow very much like species, and lots of times species are much less tolerant of growing conditions that are not exactly what they grew in naturally. They both would probably have to have the controlled atmosphere of a greenhouse to really thrive.

Bill

Yes Bill, you are correct with the 2nd photo, it should be Mok Choi Yew. The Phal. Bellina seems to be a favourite of the german orchids fans (as if it's an easy grower). The Mok Choi Yew looks so classic but in reality, I dont know if it looks so attractive as in the photo. It seems very pricey with the orchid handlers

Yes would be nice to have them in my collection. But have to wait till I understand more of orchid growing and caring.

All the leaves has withered after being infected by scales since 2 mths ago. Also, I have repotted the plant with new mix being afraid that their might be more pest hidden in the old mix.

From the 1st and 2nd picture, it is the present status of the Dend. Nobile. New leaves are emerging from all sides of the stems and I am wondering if it will ever bllom again?

Ginger, you will be hard pressed to grow nobile type Dendrobiums in a Climate with severe winters. They are cold tolerant down to just above zero C. But at they same time they need a lot of light. This is because some of the ancestors come from monsoonal forests where the trees lose their leaves in the drier cooler winter climate.

Beginner's orchids here where the Summer daily temperature average range is 17 to 27C. Winter daily average temperature range is 7 to 17C.

You cannot grow and flower them in the same conditions as a Phal.

There are several of them down the backyard in a shade-house getting rained on. Current conditions out there are. 12C 95% humidity.

The caspar milktoast Phals are in this room where it is 17.5C 66% humidity.

Even though well grown plants lose their leaves, the canes remain green for several years to provide food for the actively growing parts of the plant.

See if you can find some notes written for Northern Europe or Northern USA.

Here is a link to an old thread. It might have been better to start a new thread rather than adding to a Phal. Thread.

Nobile Dendrobiums....old discussion

Thanks Bill and Arthurm for the good advice.

Also Arthurm, tks for providing the link for the old discussion. Taking your advice, I have already open a new thread for this discussion Dend. Nobile which I agree is better to separate the 2 topics of Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium.

Bill and Arthurm2015, please read my comments on the new thread.

Ginger, It may just be me, but I cannot find your new thread on Dend. Nobiles.......?

o.k. Bill and Arthurm2015, sorry I have forgotten to include the link for you to follow up with the new thread.

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/orchids-dendrodum-nobile-dsvw-vd~3248079[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/orchids-dendrodum-nobile-dsvw-vd~3248079) or

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/orchids-dendrodum-nobile-dsvw-vd~3248079