Introducing Seiko Brings A New, Slimmed Down Take On The Marinemaster

Seiko is bringing back the legendary Marinemaster name. The new-for-2023 trio of watches takes elements from the original Marinemaster and Seiko's original diver, the 62MAS, to deliver a new diver that melds old and new. The new 39.5mm Marinemaster comes with a blue, black, and silver dial – the blue and black will become a part of Seiko's permanent collection, while the silver is a 1,000-piece limited edition. 

The original Seiko Marinemaster was released to the world in 2000. It was Seiko's spec'd out, beefed up diver, complete with a 44mm monobloc case, 300 meters of water resistance, and helium-proof construction (no valve required). Seiko has released additional versions of the Marinemaster since, the last of which was the SBDX017, discontinued in 2018. It's always been at the top of the heap for its no-nonsense, tool-watch appeal, the thing Seiko does as well as anyone. We probably could've included it on the list of our 10 favorite Seikos of all time as a deep cut for enthusiasts without much objection.

For 2023, Seiko has brought back the Marinemaster name trying to infuse it with more mass appeal. Gone is that iconic one-piece case, swapped for a smaller size that measures 39.5mm and just 12.3mm thick, with a resemblance to the 62MAS and some of its reissues. But the case's shape and structure are distinct, with brushed surfaces and large, polished bevels. It has an exhibition caseback, a first for a Seiko diver. There's also some printing on the exhibition caseback, a thing brands sometimes do that's never made much sense to me – do you want me to look at it or not? Anyway, it feels like this is a watch that doesn't need an exhibition caseback. 

The new Marinemaster comes with three dial options: blue (SJE099), black (SJE101), and silver (SJE097). The blue and black join the Prospex line as part of the permanent collection, while the silver dial is a limited edition of 1,000, designed to commemorate Seiko's 100th anniversary. All three dials have horizontal grooves, with "Marinemaster" printed at 12 o'clock and the Prospex "X" at 6 o'clock. A circular date window sits at 4:30. I'll withhold judgment on the dial treatment until I see it in the metal, but it might come across as busy compared to a simple sunray finish like the SBP143 or, say, the SPB381 GMT. But, it gives the Marinemaster a more contemporary feel. 

Inside the Marinemaster lineup is the Seiko caliber 6L37. The automatic movement has a 45-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz. It's a movement Seiko first introduced in the Prospex SJE093 Limited Edition earlier this year.  

The bracelet for the Marinemaster is also new. It has three rounded links, with the middle links having mirror-polished and brushed surfaces. There's a push-button clasp and diver's extension. Sadly, there's no tool-free micro-adjust. This isn't a problem on a $400 Seiko 5, but it starts to be one in an upmarket diver where the competition is cutthroat, and often has quick-adjust mechanisms. When the Marinemaster hits retailers beginning in December, they'll have a price of $2,800. 

The updated Marinemaster collection brings a mix of emotions, which I suppose makes sense given the various references Seiko is making here. While the collection uses the Marinemaster name, Seiko also says they take inspiration from the original 62MAS. No doubt, the downsized case will give these watches more commercial appeal, but hardcore enthusiasts might reject the use of the Marinemaster name on a watch that is decidedly not really a Marinemaster. No doubt, other watches in Seiko's catalog carry forward some of the ethos of the original Marinemaster, but then why use the fan-favorite mark on this release? That said, this is a good-looking collection of modern dive watches, no matter what name's printed on the dial. 

The new Marinemaster feels like a thoroughly modern take on the 62MAS. The case size just works, and it's been updated to distinguish itself from the traditional 1965 case. The bracelet has also been updated, though the clasp leaves something to be desired. And I've been around enough to hear James wax on about the SPB143. Is this watch really twice as good, as the price might suggest?

At $2,800, the Marinemaster collection is cheaper than the limited-edition SJE093 that introduced the caliber 6L37 in July. But this still leaves it in an uber-competitive space for divers. Oris, Doxa, Longines, and your favorite smaller brand all offer compelling dive watches around this price, and Tudor's within spitting distance. 

Seiko retired the last Marinemaster (SBDX017) in 2018, and that watch had a decidedly different appeal: 44mm, 300 meters of water resistance, and an 8 series movement. It also had a lower MSRP than the new Marinemaster. As James pointed out when introducing the SJE093, the price point of these watches puts a lot of pressure on the new movement, especially when you can get something like the SPB143 for a fraction of the cost. But, while that watch takes clear cues of vintage inspiration, the new Marinemaster tries to do something different. It mixes and matches different references from Seiko's past: a little Marinemaster here, some 62MAS there, all tightly packaged for something that seems intended to have more modern, commercial appeal. And no doubt, it's a handsome, modern dive watch, but with the references to the past, it's hard to forget the truly great divers we've lost along the way. 

Brand: Seiko
Model: Marinemaster
Reference Number: SJE099 (blue), SJE101 (black), SJE097 (limited edition, silver dial)

Diameter: 39.5mm
Thickness: 12.3mm
Case Material: Stainless steel; 60-minute dive bezel (case and bracelet have Seiko's super-hard coating)
Dial Color: Blue, black, or silver (limited edition)
Crystal: Sapphire
Lume: Lumibrite on hands and indices
Water Resistance: 200 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp, push-button release, secure lock, and extender

Caliber: 6L37 (Seiko "Slimline" caliber)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Thickness: 3.7mm
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour
Jewels: 26
Additional Details: Seiko states accuracy of +15/-10 per day

Price: $2,800
Availability: December 2023
Limited Edition: SJE097 (silver) is limited to 1,000 pieces; other references part of permanent collection