Review: Liza

What were your first impressions when you arrived? The Lebanese diaspora in Paris is well-documented, and while there are a plethora of casual Lebanese restaurants, few are as well-known, and as stylish, as Liza. A mix of old Beirut glamour and French design aesthetics come together for an initial “wow” effect upon entry: exquisite star-shaped suspension lights, cushions from the Lebanese designer Bokja, palm-tree wallpaper for a relaxed touch, and rattan chairs. You also get a clear picture of how spacious the restaurant is from the doorstep—something of a rarity in Paris.

What’s the crowd like? Don't be surprised to dine alongside Lebanese visitors, or locals with Lebanese heritage: It's a veritable destination that draws big groups. But depending on the time of day, the crowd changes: Lunch is more business, and dinner is more date-night and family gatherings with high energy. Weekend brunch, a newer offer from owners Liza and Ziad Asseily, is equally bustling, with a distinctly family-friendly vibe.

What should we be drinking? Pair local Lebanese wines and arak or homemade orange blossom lemonade with the mezze. The wine list is short, but perfect for the menu.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. After 17 years in business, the focus has shifted from ultra-traditional to a balanced mix of classic Lebanese dishes and more modern takes. Think black-lemon labneh, codfish hummus, and riz au lait (rice pudding) developed with the help of L'Ami Jean chef Stéphane Jego. Everything is meant to be shared, so go for the mixed plates if you can't decide. Don't leave without trying the grilled halloumi, served with sesame-coated tomato jam.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Generosity is the maker and measure of Liza's popularity, and you can expect servers who are as energetic and attentive as they are knowledgeable.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? It's great for a casual lunch, getting a large group of friends together, or a romantic tête-à-tête in the evenings. The vibe changes drastically from day to night, which means you have many reasons to keep going back