Gardening Houseplants How to Grow and Care for Moth Orchid Moth orchids bring long-lasting blossoms to the dreary months of winter—and they are of the easiest orchids to grow in your home. By Viveka Neveln Viveka Neveln Viveka Neveln is the Garden Editor at BHG and a degreed horticulturist with broad gardening expertise earned over 3+ decades of practice and study. She has more than 20 years of experience writing and editing for both print and digital media. Learn about BHG's Editorial Process Updated on September 8, 2023 In This Article View All In This Article Where to Grow Care Pests and Problems Propagation Types FAQ Often sold for just a few dollars at supermarkets, the moth orchid (a.k.a. Phalaenopsis orchid or moon orchid) combines spectacular, long-lasting flowers (which resemble butterflies or moths) with an easy-care regimen. In fact, it's so easy to care for that even houseplant newbies can keep it blooming—so don't shy away from giving it as a gift. Moth orchid flowers come in a variety of colors, including white, purple, pink, salmon, or yellow, and some interesting speckled or blotched patterns. Phalaenopsis orchids are native to the warm, humid climates of Southeast Asia, India, Taiwan, China, New Guinea, and Australia. In the wild, they are often found growing on trees where they can anchor their roots in trunks or branches and take advantage of the moisture and dappled sunlight that spills through the forest canopy. Marty Baldwin. Moth Orchid Overview Genus Name Phalaenopsis Common Name Moth Orchid Plant Type Houseplant Light Sun Height 6 to 12 inches Width 6 to 24 inches Flower Color Blue, Green, Orange, Pink, Red, White Foliage Color Blue/Green Season Features Fall Bloom, Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom, Winter Bloom Where to Grow Moth Orchid Outdoors, moth orchids are hardy only in the warmest North American climates (USDA zones 10-12). In these regions, moth orchids can be planted outside in warm, humid areas with protection from strong winds and direct sunlight. Fortunately, for the rest of us, moth orchids also make elegant, easy-to-care-for houseplants. When grown indoors, moth orchids enjoy bright, indirect light—so you can keep one almost anywhere in a brightly lit room and enjoy its stunning flowers year-round. Group several potted orchids in the same display or include other tropical houseplants (like bromeliad, anthurium, peace lily, or African violets) to add intrigue. 22 of the Most Beautiful Blooming Houseplants You Can Grow Moth Orchid Care Tips Moth orchids are surprisingly easy to care for—albeit a little fussy about overfeeding and overwatering. Just find a warm spot for them in a bright room and follow their lead on extra care. Everything You Need to Know to Grow Orchids Like a Boss Light A moth orchid will be happiest in the bright spots of your home where it is protected from direct sunlight. Medium or bright light from a south- or west-facing window will encourage this tropical beauty to bloom for long periods of time. (This orchid tolerates low light, too, but blooms better when light is brighter.) Situate your plant so it's protected from direct afternoon sun that can scorch leaves. Soil and Water If starting from scratch or rehoming a Phalaenopsis, pot it in orchid bark or sphagnum moss. If you grow it in potting mix, the roots are more likely to rot and die. Once your planting medium begins to break down and starts to resemble soil, it's probably time to repot the plant in a bigger container with fresh bark or moss. Orchids prefer life on the dry side, at least when it comes to their roots (but humidity is another story). Only water the plant when the bark or moss it is planted in dries out (about every 10 to 14 days). Let the water run through the planting medium and out the drainage holes for a couple of minutes each time you tackle this chore. Temperature and Humidity Moth orchids tend to enjoy the same temperatures humans do, so average indoor temperatures (between 65- and 76 degrees Fahrenheit) should keep your Phalaenopsis happy. Like many tropical plants, the moth orchid thrives in humid environments. If humidity levels in your home are low (ideal for the plant is 50-70%), you can boost the humidity around your orchid by setting it on a tray of pebbles. Partially fill the tray with water, making sure the orchid is sitting well above the water line. The water will evaporate gradually, humidifying the air surrounding the plant. You can also boost humidity by grouping an orchid with other houseplants. Fertilizer Moth orchids grow at a steady, constant rate, so they benefit from small, regular applications of fertilizer to maintain optimal health. However, moth orchids do not tolerate overfeeding. Consider your plant’s growth rate when determining how often to apply fertilizer. Seedlings are likely to need more frequent applications, while older, slow-growing plants will require less frequent feedings. Follow the package instructions and apply orchid fertilizer every 1 to 2 weeks in the summer and every 3 to 4 weeks in the winter. Pruning Moth orchids are monopodial orchids, which means growth emerges from a single stem and root system. With this type of orchid, pruning isn’t necessarily required as old leaves tend to fall off naturally as new growth appears. If old, wilted stems, flowers, and leaves fail to drop—or if disease is evident—you can remove the affected bits with sharp, sterile pruning shears. Be careful to prune the stem to just above the highest healthy node below the lowest wilted bloom. Dry, brown stems can be trimmed to the soil. Potting and Repotting Your orchid will likely need to be repotted every one to three years depending on its growth rate and environment—but it may not need a larger pot. Occasionally moth orchids outgrow their container, but more often than not, orchids need to be repotted to replace the growing medium. Each year, look for signs of your orchid growing pot-bound and check if the growing medium has begun to degrade. If either of these factors is in play, it’s time to repot. To reduce stress on your plant, wait to repot until your orchid has stopped blooming—most likely spring or fall. Select a pot that is 1 inch larger or the same size as your current pot. You can also reuse the pot you have (assuming your orchid has not outgrown it), but you will need to dump and replace the growing medium. When you are ready, remove the plant from its container and gently comb apart the roots with your fingers. Cut away any dead or shriveled roots with sharp, sterile shears. Place a few inches of the new orchid potting mix or bark mix in the new or clean container and hold the plant aloft as you fill in around the roots with more mix. Once your orchid is secure in the new container, water it as you normally would. Pests and Problems The most common issues plaguing moth orchids are caused by improper watering. Give your orchid too much water and bacterial issues like brown rot or black rot are likely to develop. If it doesn’t get enough water, it could become dehydrated and suffer root loss and rot. Moth orchids can also suffer from fungal conditions like leaf spots, foliar blights, and flower blights. The most common pests for moth orchids are aphids, mealybugs, and thrips. If you catch them early, you can spritz them with a sprayer filled with peppermint castille soap and water (1 tsp of soap per quart of water). You can also use insecticidal soap or neem oil, but those may cause damage to the orchid in some climates. Spider mites may also be an issue for moth orchids. You can deter them by washing the leaves with a similar castille soap and water mix as mentioned above. Rinse the leaves after you wash them and quarantine the affected plant from other plants for two weeks or until you are sure the issue is resolved. How to Propagate Moth Orchid For most home growers, the most effective method of propagation is through plantlets known as keikis. These tiny plant clones develop on the flower stem and are completely separate orchids. You can leave them on the plant—some growers choose to—but the keikis will draw resources away from the mother plant if they are not removed. If you don’t want to cultivate the keiki into a new plant, simply cut it off with a sharp, sterile knife. To remove a keiki and cultivate it, wait until it is approximately 3 inches long and use a sterile blade to cut it from the plant while keeping the roots of the keiki intact. Place the keiki in a separate pot with moistened bark medium and mist the keiki daily while it establishes itself in the new container. Types of Moth Orchid Golden Peoker Moth Orchid Doug Hetherington Phalaenopsis 'Golden Peoker' is a hybrid that features large spots and blotches of dark burgundy red on white petals with yellow highlighting the center. It was the first of a new category of moth orchid known as harlequins. Jupiter Moth Orchid Peter Krumhardt This Phalaenopsis variety shows off spikes of white flowers that have a red-pink center. Dragon's Gold Moth Orchid Peter Krumhardt This selection of Phalaenopsis bears spikes of yellow-green flowers on a compact plant with dark green foliage. Phalaenopsis Schilleriana Doug Hetherington Phalaenopsis schilleriana offers fragrant pink flowers. It also has bold foliage marbled with silvery streaks. Phalaenopsis Stuartiana Doug Hetherington This type of moth orchid (Phalaenopsis stuartiana) offers white starry flowers with red spots. The dramatic dark green foliage has silvery markings on top and burgundy blotches beneath. Sedona's Maki Dream Moth Orchid Doug Hetherington Phalaenopsis 'Sedona's Maki Dream' bears spikes of many lovely lavender-pink flowers. Sogo David Moth Orchid Marty Baldwin This cultivar of Phalaenopsis offers spikes of yellow flowers with pink speckles that become more dense toward the blooms' center. Taisuco Moth Orchid Doug Hetherington Phalaenopsis 'Taisuco Koohdan' bursts forth with spikes of large pure-white flowers. Y.N. Moth Orchid Doug Hetherington This Phalaenopsis selection produces spikes of dark red-purple flowers that are especially long-lasting. Frequently Asked Questions Should I stake my moth orchid? Whether or not to stake a Phalaenopsis orchid is a personal choice. If you want your orchid blooms to stand tall and proud, staking is a smart choice. To do so, introduce the stake before the flowers begin to develop. This will encourage the blooms to orient properly as they open. When the orchid spike is approximately 6 to 12 inches long, secure a thin bamboo stake in the growing medium (placed as close as possible to the spike) and use tiny butterfly hair clips or twist ties to secure the spike to the stake. How do I know if my moth orchid needs water? The key to proper Phalaenopsis watering is to let it almost completely dry out between waterings. If you are uncertain, insert a finger as far as possible into the growing medium. If the medium feels at all damp, hold off on watering. When it is time to water, run water over the growing medium until it runs through the drainage holes, but do not let your orchid sit in a saucer of water. It’s also important to not let pools of water sit around the crown of the plant. Such practices will lead to overwatering and rot. Why are the stems of my moth orchid turning yellow? Several factors cause yellowing stems—and not all of them require the removal of the affected stems. One likely reason is that your orchid is getting too much direct sunlight—especially if the yellowing is happening only on one side. If this is the case, move your plant to a more protected area and the color should return.Another cause of yellowing is rot. If the faded stems feel mushy, rot is likely the cause. Pests can also cause yellowing, so check the roots and crown of your plant for evidence of unwelcome guests. If you determine that rot or pests are the cause of the yellowing, it’s best to remove the affected stems. Was this page helpful? Thanks for your feedback! Tell us why! Other Submit